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MASSACHUSETTS BAY. 



GUIDE AND HISTORY 



or 



MARBLEHEAD, SALEM NECK AND JUNIPER 
POINT, BEVERLY, AND CAPE ANN. 



BY 



Benjamin D. Hill and Winfield S. Nevins. 






SALEM, MASS. 

FEINTED AT THE SALEM PRESS. 

1879. 



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PBAa*»yii 



227 AND 229 ESSEX STREET, 

SALEM, MASS. 

EabiFS 3?upnis|ing (Joohs 

©F iViPY VARrjgTY. 



Watches, Jewelry, and. Fancy Goods, 



SILVER PLATED TABLE WARES. 



Hosieiy, QTove^, doi>^et^, L(kce>s, 



Black Dress Goods a Specialty. 

Silks, Cashmeres, Alpacas, 

Prints, Demins, 

Cottons, &c. 



Our Stock is the Best, and our Prices the Lowest^ 

EXAMINE BEFORE BUYING. 
JOHN.-P: PEABODY. 



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OFFER A 



STJX'Eie/B stock: 



ia each of the 22 departments of their store. 




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fADIES' SURNISHING loODS, 




^i^«]eiiti:0S^ Sci^ 



PR.ICES AS XuO^W 



as at any store in the State. 



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188 ESSEX STREET, SALEM. 




BOSTOlSr. 



The locHtion of the House is particularly desirable to 
the Summer Tourists. 

Horse Cars to all parts of the city and places of in- 
terest in the immediate suburbs pass the door. 

The house has always been the resort of the most 
Eminent Citizens and distinffuished Statesmen of this 
Country nnd of the Nobility, Diplomatic and Artist Celeb- 
rities of Europe. 

The rates haie recently been reduced to 
0^.M& m^^W) $^MQ> ^mm smr^ 

Excepting Front Rooms and Rooms with Baths. 



Notwithstanding the reduction in prices the hitherto 
unrivalled excellence of the Table will be strictly main- 
tained. 

CHAS. B. FERRIN, Prop. 



THE LEADING ESTABLISHMENT IN ESSEX CO., 

occiipying the best business location in Salem, is 



(UNDER FIRST GHTJRCH,) 

COE. ESSEX & WASHINGTO]!^ STS., SALEM, 





Waltham Watches at Wholesale Prices. 



STERLING SILVER WARE, 

Jet, Siim, SlieU and Pancy Jew'eiry, comSs, Spectacles, Eye Classes, &c. 

FIN-E GJ-OODS .^T ILiO^W^ P»RICES. 

DJSLITZBZi ZiOlSr, 

SPECIAL FBICES FOU LABQE OEDEItS OE COITTEACTS. 



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AG-JiJSTd iOK, THE bALE OF TKE 

TJ3^i03sr wiEis 131 j^ ivr nvc o c ic , 

TB^i; STRONGEST AND CHEArEST MADE. 

Agents for Olrey's I'atent Tocket Flasks. Camping conveniences. 

ANGLERS will flnd everytliing for flsiiiiig of the most reliable qualitj', of 
all kinds and styles. Rods made of Split Bamboo. Greenlieart. Lance- 
wood, etc.. Reels of RublxT, Brass, German Silver and Nickel plated, 
for Trout, Bass, Salmon, etfc. Artificial Fi.iKS for all waters, own 
patterns and dressing. Special flies made to order. Everything that 
is new and choice in the way of FrsHiNG Tackle. 

TRAVELERS' ARTICLES, such as Luncheon Baskets, Flasks, Tele- 
scopes, Pocket Compasses, Yaclit Compasses, &c. 

Razors. Dressing Cases, Traveling Cases, Sportsmen's Knives. 

FANCY HARDWARE in endless variety. Small Steel Wares. 

Xo, 374 Washington Street, opposite Bronifield St., Boston, 

Orders by mail receive prompt attention. _^3 



INTRODUCTORY. 



When Roger Conant, that observing pioneer, sailed 
along the Cape shore from Gloucester to the mouth 
of the Naumkeag river he saw the coast was one of 
no common beauty. To his penetrating glance was 
revealed a landscape of fresh and charming lines, 
the foreground a picturesque coast, the distance 
filled by undulating hills that lay soft hidden in the 
blue of a bright summer morning. Conant was de- 
lighted. Seeking a spot where religion should be 
as free as the air around, could he do better than 
plant a colony where every influence of nature sec- 
onded his pious purpose? Intolerance and bigotry 
could hardly find place when every idling wind 
placed its veto on slavery to anything. Conant 
needed no second thought, and with the readiness of 
a man who apppreciates, he at once moved a por- 
tion of his little colony to the mouth of the Naum- 
keag. 

What Roger Conant gloried in, two hundred and 
fifty years ago, strikes the observer to-day with the 
same gentle force ; whether he sails along the coast 
or travels the centre of the Cape by the Eastern 
Railway to Salem, Marblehead, and Beverly Imrbors, 



acres of tin}^ forests, little villas like diamonds in 
rich natural settings, broad and undulating fields, 
glimpses of the sea, each and all contribute to paint 
a picture for the traveler that can scarce fade from 
his memory. From Newport to Portland a more 
dainty bit of natural beauty it would be hard to 
find. And visitors to the north shore of Massachu- 
setts bay, let them come when they may, never 
leave it without the resolve to return. How charm- 
ingly Higginson has written of it in his Oldport 
Days, and 3'et the immortalit}^ conferred on it there 
has not made it known to the large mass of readers ; 
for Higginson wrote as a poet, and the practical 
part, the unpoetic part of this life, is wanting. Had 
he supplied this, no special pleading for our beloved 
Cape would have been needed. And while we do 
not presume to place ourselves on a level with that 
distinguished writer, we trust the work we submit 
to the public in all modesty may fill their needs and 
satisfy their thirst for knowledge. Woven with a 
description of the localities the reader will find the 
more interesting events of their histories, and, while 
not overlooking the needs and certain aims of a 
guide book, we have endeavored to obliterate as 
much as possible the dry matter-of-factness of such 
productions. 



Copyright by Benjamin D. Hill and WinPIEld S. Nevins, in the 
Library of Congress, Washington, D. C. 



bT 



MARBLEHEAD. 



The Neck.— Clifton House.— Old Landmarks. 

As a summer resort Marblehead is unsurpassed on the 
New England coast. Its bold and rocky shores extending 
far out into the open sea, its cool, pure, and invigorating 
air, its irregular cliffs, its green fields, its beautiful slopes* 
and its pleasant roads, make it a perfect paradise for such 
as seek genuine rest and recreation ; and those who visit 
the place, and among them are many of wealth and cul- 
ture, come for this purpose. The peninsula known as 
Marblehead Great Neck is one and a quarter miles 
ill length and about a half mile in width at the widest 
point. It is a part of the grand historic old town of Mar- 
blehead. Just before tlie first gun of the Revolution was 
fired a company of "British regulars" was stationed on 
its heights to overawe the people of the town and to com- 
pel compliance with the restrictions which the British 
Government was attempting to enforce. But although 
the place was cool and airy, the Marblehead boys who 
afterwards composed the "amphibious regiment" of Col. 
Glover made it so uncomfortably warm for them that they 
soon deemed it expedient to evacuate. The Neck is con- 
nected with the main land by a narrow isthmus, along 
which the sea itself has constructed one of the firmest 
foundations for a highway by washing up a vast line of 
boulders. In a storm the sea beats upon the ocean side 
with tremendous force. There can hardly be conceived a 
grander sight than is witnessed on this neck when a 
southeaster gets at work in earnest. The ledges exposed 



MABBLEHEAD. 



to the ocean are high, and in several places channels have 
been worn into them — one known as the Churn and 
another as the Spouting- Horn — into which the water is 
driven in storms with such tremendous force as to throw 
the spray and water often more than one hundred feet 
into the air. The Neck is bounded on the one side by 
Massachusetts Bay and on the other side by Marblehead 
Harbor. It comprises every variet}' of shore. 

Its area is about 300 acres. In the centre, or nearly so, 
between the pasture hills, is a meadow where grow a large 
variety of the most fragrant and beautiful wild flowers in 
the greatest profusion. The harbor, which is on the 
northwesterly side, is a half mile wide and is one of the 
deepest on the coast, having five fathoms of water at low 
tide. It is pronounced the best yacht harbor in New 
England. On this account mainly, many yachtsmen are 
settling at the Neck. It is a tine sight on a summer day 
to see the harbor alive with yachts and small boats, and 
in the evening, "when the lamps are lighted," the town 
and boats present a fairy-like scene. The view across 
the harbor is peculiarly attractive. There in plain sight 
(a very bird's-eye view) lies the quaint old town on its 
foundation of porphyry and granite — the most pictu- 
resque town in the Commonwealth, if not in all America; 
to look upon which reminds the traveler of two-century- 
old cities he has seennestling'around some harbor on the 
shores of the Mediterranean. There too, are those 
sombre old Marblehead wharves, as solid as the foun- 
dation on which stands the town. There, also, to the 
eastward, is Peach's Point, and on one side of it Port 
Sewall, still maintained as a fortification under the care 
of a gentlemanly sergeant. The view along the coast 
and out to sea is grand in the extreme, taking in a full 
sweep of old ocean. In full view on the harbor side are 



MABBLEHEAD. 



' Beverly, Manchester, and Gloucester shores, Thatcher's 
Island, Eastern Point, Board man's Point and Baker's Isl- 
and light-houses, Marblehead light near the point of the 
Neck, and on the ocean side, Swampscott, Lynn, Nahant, 
and the South Shore, Egg Rock light, Minot's Ledge and 
the other outer lights of Boston Harbor. 

The bathing facilities are very good, although there is 
no high rolling surf. As for fishing, the sea perch may 
be caught from almost any point on the shore, and cod 
and other large fish by rowing a short distance. The 
drives both on the Neck and about the town generally are 
very fine. A splendid highway encircles the entire terri- 
tory of the Neck, afi"ording one of the grandest drives on 
the New England coast. On the main land the roads 
through Marblehead, Swampscott, Lynn, Nahant, along 
Atlantic avenue. Ocean street, and Nahant beach can 
hardly be surpassed in attractiveness. In the other direc- 
tion the drives to Salem, where all its historic points may 

* be visited, thence along the Beverly and Cape Ann shore, 
are equally pleasant. 

Some twenty years ago attention was attracted to the 
Neck as an agreeable summer resort. A road was built 
along the causeway and many lots were sold for summer 
residences. The greater part of the land belonged to the 
estate of Ephraim Brown, deceased, and the remainder to 
Isaac C. Wyman, Esq., who is now one of the trustees of 
the Brown property with Hon. William D. Northend and 
George F. Flint, Esq. For some time the sale of building 
sites and the settlement of the place was suspended on 
account of disputed claims. But full settlement of all 
controversies was made in 1878, and under the energetic 
management of the trustees named, sales of building lots 
to the amount of more than $40,000 have been made since 
October, 1878. The placing of prices of lots at a reason- 



MABBLEHEAD. 



able rate has contributed much to this remarl^able suc- 
cess. Most of the lots sold by the present trustees are 
from one-half acre to three acres each. It has been and 
is the desire of the trustees that the estate be sold in 
good-sized lots, so that the place may not become too 
crowded for comfort ; but smaller lots are sold in partic- 
ular sections. The arrangements for streets and for 
drainage are ample. The distance from the entrance 
upon the Neck to Devereux station on the Swampscott 
branch railway is about three-quarters of a mile. Barges 
connect with all the trains during the summer mouths. 
Many of the residents prefer, however, to reach the cars 
by crossing the harbor in boats (and there are regular 
ferrymen), which takes about ten minutes, and thence 
walking through the town about one-half mile to the Mar- 
blehead depot. Frequent trains run to Boston over the 
Swampscott branch by way of Lynn and over the Marble- 
head branch via Salem. The running time between Mar- 
blehead and Boston is about fifty-five minutes by either 
route. There are a very large number of never failing 
springs of the purest water on the Neck. Ice, milk, veg- 
etables and provisions of all kinds are supplied daily from 
wagons from the town. The healthfulness of Marblehead 
Neck is proverbial. Many years ago it was peopled with 
farmers. One very old lady, who had passed nearly all 
her days here, finally moved over to town. On being 
asked why she had left the Neck she replied : *'I wish to 
die sometime, and people never die on the Neck ; its too 
healthy there." 

The society on the Neck is of the best. A fine hall has 
been erected principally through the exertions of the 
young people, which is used on week-days and evenings 
for social gatherings, amateur theatricals and dancing, 
and on Sundays for religious purposes. There are about 



MABBLEHEAD. 



fifty cottages here, some quite extensive, and two board- 
ing houses. It is expected that ten or twenty new resi- 
dences will be erected the present season. 

The shore around the Neck is reserved to public uses; 
that is, no purchaser of shore-lots is given control of the 
beaches or cliffs. Beside the peninsula, in close prox- 
imity, are two islands, one Marblehead rock near the 
point, on which, it is said, the pulpit of the Old South 
Church of Boston reposes ; the other, Tinker island at the 
opposite end. 

On leaving the Neck we pass the well-known Devereux 
estate and mansion, near the depot. Then follow- 
ing Atlantic avenue, a broad highway recently laid out, 
we pass the little Peabody settlement and leave the town 
of Marblehead just beyond the Clifton House. This 
house, one of the oldest and most popular in the vicinity, 
is managed by Mr. Benj. P. Ware Jr. It will accommodate 
125 persons. A large vegetable and fruit farm extending 
back of the hotel supplies fresh fruit and vegetables, and 
a premium herd of thoroughbred Ayrshire cows furnish 
an abundance of milk. This farm is one of the best in 
Essex County. Mr. Ware himself is a prominent member 
of the Mass. Horticultural Society and president of the 
Essex Agricultural Society. Connected with the house 
are billiard room and bowling alley, croquet grounds and 
a grove. A good beach directly in front affords excellent 
and safe bathing and boating. Fish may be cajaght from 
the rocks or in boats off the shore. 

The house stands on high land, within ten rods of the 
broad ocean, and commands a view of Massachusetts bay, 
enlivened by the numerous shipping passing to and from 
Boston harbor, and also a view of four light-houses. The 
shores of Nahant, Nantasket and Cohasset are visible, and 
with the various islands of the bay, present, under certain 



MABBLEHEAD. 



atmospheric conditions, wonderful and beautiful mirage 
effects resembling the palisades on the Hudson. The 
rocks on this northern shore offer an interesting study to 
the geologist, from their strange formations. A particu- 
larly interesting feature near the Clifton House, is " Gun 
Rock," a singular crevice four feet wide and ten feet deep, 
extending fifty feet into the rock, through which the waves 
are forced, at times, spouting some sixty feet high with a 
loud report like a gun. 



CUFIOX HOLSE. 

On the other side of the village, along the shore, is the 
Crowningshield estate with several pretty residences, and 
on the Salem harbor side is the elegant residence of Hon. 
J. J. H. Gregory, the well-known seed-man. 

Marbleheacl being one of the oldest towns in the state, 
has much historical interest. It was deeded to the early 
settlers by the Indians in 1684, for the sum of 14£ 13s. 
The deed may be seen at the present time. The remains 
of a rude fortification near the western limits of the town 
is all that is left to remind the present generation of the 



MABBLEAEAD. 



powerful tribe, that here gathered about Naimpashemet to 
defend their lands and rights against their Indian foes. 
This town in point of wealth and commerce was at one 
time the second in Massachusetts. Its harbor is one of 
the deepest on the Atlantic coast. Longfellow wrote of 
the towik in 1849 as follows: 

*' We sat within the favm-house old, 

Whose windows, looking o'er the bay, 
Gave to the sea-breeze, damp and cold, 
An easy entrance night and day. 

Not far away we saw the port, 
Tlie strange, old-fashioned, silent town, 

The light-house, the dismantled fort, 
The wooden houses, quaint and brown. 

The windows, rattling in their frames. 

The ocean roaring up the beach, 
The gusty blast, the bickering flames. 

All mingled with our speech." 

A writer in ''Old Naurakeag" gives the following com- 
prehensive description of the poi,nts of interest in the 
town: 

"One of the curiosities of the village is its crooked 
meandering streets. The town was evidently settled 
without regard to streets or boundary lines, each settler 
locating on some ledge or rise of ground wherever he 
pleased. Marblehead is rich in landmarks of the past, 
which would require a volume to describe and give theiu 
history. There is the Mugford monument on Pleasant 
street near the Eastern depot; the Soldiers' and Sailors' 
monument on Mugford street; the old North Church, rich 
in historic associations; St. Michael's Church, built in 
1714, still in a good state of preservation, and serving the 
Episcopalians of Marblehead as a place of worship, and 
whose second pastor the Rev. David Mosson, subsequently 



SALEM NECK. 



moviDg to Virginia, had the distinguished honor of mar- 
rying George Washington and Mrs. Martha Custis Also 
the town house, built in 1728, on the spot ivhere the -gaol 
and cage" once stood; the old powder house; parson 
Barnard's old residence, bnilt in 1720; the house in which 
Elbridge Gerry was born ; the birth place and early home 
of Judge Story; the early home of good old parson Hoi- 
yoke who left Marblehead to take charge of Harvard 
College and win fresh laurels; the old burial ground witb 
Its Quamt tomb stones bearing the oddest of inscriptions. 
Then there is the famous old Lee house, built bv Hon 
Jeremiah Lee at a cost of £10,000. It was magnificently 
finished and some remains of its former grandeur may be 
seen to-day in its spacious hall, carved wainscotings and 
beautiful historic paper hangings. Towering above all 
these monuments of the past is the new Abbot Hall a 
bequest from a generous native of the town, Benjamin 
Abbot. Mr. Abbot's bequest amounted to over ^100 000 
and the hall cost ^75,000. The sum of $20,000 was set 
apart for a public library and reading room, of which 
strangers may enjoy all privileges by depositing $3. as 
security. " *^ 

SALEM NECK. 

The WiLLOws.-JuNiPER Point.-Winter Island. 

Felt says that Salem Neck was occupied by fishermen as^ 
early as 1637 at the -point of rocks » on the present 
Rowell farm near the Rowell homestead. The Hawthornes 
owned land here at one time and the family house is still 
standing. This is the first point of interest on the ri-ht 
as we enter upon the Neck. On the left is the Salem City 
farm extending along the shore to the Willows The 



SALEM NECK, 



to 
Alms house, a large brick building erected in 1815, stands 
at the extremity of a lane leading ofi" the main street to 
the left. A little further along on the main avenue, and 
near the top of the hill, is a building used as a public pest- 
house in case of epidemic. Just beyond, on the brow of 
the hill, stands Fort Lee, now dismantled and crumbling 
away. A fort was built here" as early as 1699 and has ex- 
isted in one condition and another dow^n to the present 
time. In 1775 Gen. Henry Lee rebuilt it and mounted 
guns on it. Hence the name. After the war of the rev- 
olution and the war of 1812-14 it was abandoned by the 
general government. It was again rebuilt during the frat- 
ricidal strife of 1861-5, but little used. Taking the left- 
hand road of the three just beyond the fort, we soon reach 
*'The Willows" so called, (formerly known as Watch- 
house Point), a few acres of city property set apart for 
public use. It received its present name a few years since 
from the venerable grove of willow trees that were here 
planted by order of the Board of Health in 1801, when 
forty trees were set out, "in such direction as they (the 
Board of Health), may think will be most conducive to 
the comfort and convenience of the sick that may in 
future be there." The hospital and quarantine station 
was here located. On the shore of the Willows in front 
of the Eimtree pavilion, was a fine breastwork erected in 
1812, which was defended»by troops from Salem, This 
breastwork was partially demolished a few years since. 
Faint traces of it still remain. This is the terminus of the 
street railway and brings us to the water's edge. 

Time was when this locality was a mere waste without 
a building on it. Under the spreading willow trees, in 
summer, the children of the poorer classes have often 
gathered to breathe for an hour the pure air of heaven 
and enjoy undisturbed the beauties of nature, or bathe 



SALEM NECK. 



their feet in the cooling water which washed the shore. 
The only path leading here was a rough and crooked lane. 
Now all is changed. A broad highway — thanks to the 
energy of ex-mayor Williams — and a line of street cars — 
thanks to the enterprise of the Naumkeag Street Railway 
— make the journey short and pleasant, either on foot, 
or in private carriage, or puWic conveyance. All this has 
been done in the face of unexplainable opposition on the 
part of some citizens and members of the city government. 
As an event of a remarkable and at the same time amus- 
ing nature in this connection, it should be recorded that 
in the spring of 1879 a member of the Common Council 
refused to favor an appropriation for shade trees at the 
Neck unless the order was accompanied by a provision 
for the closing of all the restaurants at 8 p. m., and re- 
straining the band from playing there in the evening. 
Thus depriving the laboring people who work all day of 
any opportunity to enjoy the ordinary pleasures of the 
place. It is gratifying to record further that the measure 
failed by an overwhelming- vote. 

A number of eating places have been established at 
*'The Willows" and the city has erected pavilions and 
seats. Numberless pleasure boats and dories for sailing 
or rowing may be found on the beaches. 

A large pavilion is open to the public for dances, picnics 
or general meetings. At timee steamers are run from the 
Neck to Lowell island or down the harbor. The effect of 
these public improvements on the Neck, together with 
the improvements on Juniper point by Mr. D. B. Gardner 
(described further on) has been to add very largely to the 
city valuation. The private property here was assessed, 
in 1873, for $9,800. To-day the assessed valuation is 
above one hundred thousand dollars; showing that the 
city's investment and fostering care was judicious. 



15 



8ALE3I NECK. 



Returning now to the junction of the three roads near 
Fort Lee and the Juniper House, formerly the Allen farm 
homestead, we take the middle one of these roads which 
leads to the settlement known as "The Juniper" or 
Juniper point. This is the extreme easterly point of 
Salem Neck. It is mainly elevated land with a rocky 
shore, rendering it peculiarly situated for drainage and 
free from miasmatic lowlands. No breeze sweeps over it 
which does not come tempered by the sea. For many 
years this section was mainly a pasture known as the 
Allen farm. A pretty tradition tells us that some Boston 
clerks first discovered the merits of the place as a summer 
resort by camping out here about 1855-6. But this tale 
lacks the essential of truth. About six or seven years 
ago some Lowell people, dissatisfied with the then exist- 
ing arrangements at Marblehead, were led to seek it, and 
in 1873 a few small cottages were erected. Each succeed- 
ing year brought them back and others with them from 
Lowell, Salem, Peabody and other places. In 1875 Mr. 
Daniel B. Gardner of Salem purchased the Allen farm of 
the Dustin heirs, containing about forty-two acres, and 
laid it out in building lots and streets. Since then he has 
expended much time and money improving the place. 
Good roads have been built; some shade trees planted; 
Wenham water introduced and fountains erected. At 
present writing (May, 1879), a sea-wall is being built be- 
tween the Point and Winter island, with a view to form- 
ing a retaining dam. The enclosure will make a salt- 
water basin for bathing and boating. It will contain 
sufficient water for these purposes even at low tide, and 
yet will be changed with every change of tide. The 
Juniper settlement numbers seventy cottages, some of 
them large and handsome, and in mid-summer has an 
agreeable population of about 500. 



SALEM NECK. 



The situation is picturesque and pleasant. Standing 
here we can see the City of Salem, and its harbor, the 
Marblehead shore, and, across the extreme point of the 
town, Lowell island and the hotel on it. Directly in front 
are the islands of the bay and Salem harbor. On the left 
is the beautiful shore of Cape Ann from Eastern Point ; 
past Magnolia, Manchester and West Beach, with here 
and there a glimpse of some charming villa, to Beverly 
village and harbor. 

Just across the little cove is Winter island, now con- 
nected with the main land by a permanent causeway. 
With the exception of a small section controlled by the 
United States government whereon stand a light-house 
and the ruins of Fort Pickering, the entire island is the 
property of and connected with the Plummer Farm 
School, a reform school for small boys. The institution 
was founded on a bequest of $25,000 by Miss Caroline 
Plummer. The farm is a fine one and furnishes abund- 
ance of vegetables for the early market. On this island 
the old U. S. Frigate Essex, one of the most historic ships 
of the American Navy was built, in 1799. The Essex 
was the first ship to carry the stars and stripes around 
the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Horn ; was the first to 
capture an armed prize in the war of 1812-14. Among 
her commanders were numbered Preble, Bainbridge, 
Decatur, Stewart and the father of Admiral Porter. On 
her deck Admiral Farragut was first wounded. Previous 
to the late war the island was the muster field of the 
Essex County militia. During that war it was a rendez- 
vous for troops. All of these points may be reached by 
street cars and barges which are running constantly day 
and evenins: duriner the summer season. 



}5 



BEVEBLY. 



EEYERLY. 



History and Description.— The Sea Shore. — Pride's 
Crossing. — Beverly Farms. 

Across Beverly harbor from Salem lies the town of 
Beverly at the head of Cape Ann. To reach it, either by 
carriage or rail, we must cross a long bridge which spans 
an arm of the sea known as Bass river at the head of 
Beverly harbor. The highway bridge extends from the 
terminus of Bridge street, Salem, to Cabot street, Beverly, 
and is 1,484 feet in length and 34 feet in width. It was 
incorporated as a toll-bridge in 1787, and the first timber 
was driven in May, 1788. The Act of Incorporation pro- 
vided that tolls might be collected during seventy years. 
It did not become a free bridge until some time after the 
expiration of that period, and since it has been free, the 
expense of maintainance has been borne by Salem and 
Beverly. The railroad bridge crosses the river just west 
of the carriage bridge. The main pipe of the Wenham 
water supply rests on an independent pier close beside 
the carriage way. It is related that when George Wash- 
ington made his tour through New England he so admired 
this bridge that he got out of his carriage and walked its 
entire length. ~ 

Beverly was once a fishing and agricultural community, 
but of late years the fishing business has considerably di- 
minished, and a new industry — the shoe business — has 
grown up. Some thirty factories have been erected, 
mostly in the vicinity of the railway station on the west- 
erly side of the town, and during the last few years they 
have done a thriving business. 



BEVERLY. 



Historically, Beverly is one of the oldest towns of the 
Massachusetts Bay colony. Roger Conant himself was 
one of the first settlers here, John Woodbury and Wil- 
liam Woodbury preceding him by a few years. The set- 
tlement was detached from Salem, of which it formed a 
part, and incorporated as the town of Beverly in' 1668. 
The first town meeting was held on Nov. 23 of the same 
year. Capt. Thomas Lothrop, William Dixey, William 
Dodge, sen., John West and Paul Thorndike were the first 
selectmen. The people worshipped with the Salem 
Church until 1649, when they received permission to have 
separate worship among themselves, and in 1656 they 
built a meeting house. It stood near the site of the pres- 
ent Old South Church, which is on the corner of Cabot 
and Hale streets, but not on the same spot. Rev. John 
Hale was the first pastor. Among his direct descendants 
have been Hon. John P. Hale, Hon. Nathan Hale and Rev. 
Edward Everett Hale. A second church was established 
at North Beverly about 1713, with Rev. John Chipman as 
pastor. During subsequent years the following churches 
have been organized: First Baptist on Cabot street; 
Third Congregational on Dane street ; Second Baptist at 
Beverly Farms, Fourth Congregational at North Beverly 
(now merged in the Second Congregational at North 
Beverly) ; Washington Street Congregational on Wash- 
ington street; Uuiversalist on Thorndike street; Metho- 
dist on Railroad avenue; Catholic on Cabot street; St. 
Peter's (Episcopal) on Bow street; Independent Metho- 
dist in Odd Fellows building. 

Beverly has made wonderful strides in the march of im- 
provements during the past ten or fifteen years. True, 
some of these improvements have been costly, and the 
town is burdened with a heavy debt, but there is certainly 
something substantial, something permanent, to show for 



17 



BEVEBLT. 



it. The roads are the best in Essex County; Wenham 
water pipes penetrate to the remotest corner; the school 
houses and fire department houses are unsurpassed in 
outward appearance or internal arrangements by any in 
the county. The town house was more than doubled in 
size a few years ago. This building was originally the 
private residence of Mr. Andrew Cabot. Subsequently 
it was owned and occupied by Hon, Israel Thorndike, 
whose heirs sold it to the town. On the first floor are the 
offices of the various town officials and a free public 
library of 5,000 volumes; on the second floor is a large^ 
and well appointed hall ; in the upper story is Thorndike ' 
Hall, a large banqueting room. Nearly opposite the town 
house is Odd Fellow's building, a handsome brick struct- 
ure. Just beyond is the fine Briscoe school-house occu- 
pied by the High and Briscoe schools, beside which the 
town has nine other school-houses, all newly built. Pri- 
vate enterprise has also made extensive improvements. 
While many of the present generation will complain of 
those who were instrumental in. incurring the debt neces- 
sary to secure these public and private improvements, the 
next generation will no doubt praise its predecessor for 
having left these public works. The post office and bank 
are located in Masonic block on the comer of Cabot and 
Washington streets. This block was erected by the mem- 
bers of Liberty Lodge of Freemasons in 1867 at a cost of 

$20,000. 

Those who delight in tracing out early settlements will 
doubtless be interested to know that the first settlers of 
Beverly, Roger Conant, John and William Woodbury and 
John Balch, of the '' old planters," who came hither from 
Cape Ann, located on grants very near Balch street. 

Among those sons of Beverly who have obtained more 
than local prominence may be mentioned Robert Rantoul, 



BEVEBLY. 



Jr., statesman and scholar. Graduating at Harvard in 
182G, he practised law in Essex County, was representa- 
tive to the General Court, collector of the port of Boston, 
United States District Attorney, succeeded Daniel Web- 
ster in the United States Senate, and finally died while a 
m ember of the National House of Representatives. Con- 
temporary with Eantoul was Isaac 'Ray, a distinguished 
writer on medical jurisprudence and mental diseases : also, 
Wilson Flagg, the great naturalist. Rev. A. P. Peabody, 
one of the ablest clergymen of the county, now pastor of 
the North Avenue Congregational Church, Cambridge, and 
Rev. E. P. Tenney, author of the beautiful hymn, "There 
is an hour of peaceful rest," were both natives of Beverly. 

Statistically speaking, Beverly has a population of 
about 7,500 (7,271 in 1875). According to the census of 
1875 it contained 1,399 dwellings (in 1860 the number was 
900). The amount of capital invested in manufactures 
was (1875) $314,700. The values of some of the manu- 
factures were as follows : earthern ware, $10,000; bricks, 
§6,G00; machinery, $5,000; wagons, $8,000; boxes, $9,000; 
boots and shoes, $1,539,800. The capital invested in this 
latter branch was $290,150. These occupations gave em- 
ployment to 1,314 persons. The fishing business, as has 
been stated, has diminished largely. The value of the cod 
brought to its ports in 1875 was $131,000. The valuation 
of the town in 1878 was $5,386,600 real estate; and 
$2,372,300 personal; polls, 1,910; rate of taxation, $14.80, 
per $1,000. 

The art connoisseurs who visit Cape Ann will find in 
Beverly one of the most attractive "galleries" tliat the 
country afibrds, in the works of the " Beverly pottery." 
Here they will see accurate reproductions of all the best 
specimens of ancient pottery, literal copies of some of 
the finest pieces now in the old world art museums. This 



/^ 



BEVEBLY. 



pottery was established at the very beginning of the 
eighteenth century and has been in operation during the 
greater portion of the time since. The manufacture of 
copies of ancient vases was begun by Mr. C. A. Lawrence 
in 1872, and was the first efibrt of the land in this coun- 
try. Mr. Lawrence, at the solicitation of some art-loving 
ladies of Boston, undertook to copy certain ancient pot- 
tery vases. This he did for three years for private sales 
only, the wares fetching fabulous prices. Eventually the 
goods were offered for sale in Boston and New York, and 
since then the demand has been very great. It is impos- 
sible to describe here what Mr. Lawrence's store rooms 
contain, and the writer can only urge every visitor to this 
section to make a personal visit. The imformation in the 
art of ancient vases, and in pottery in general, to be ob- 
tained, to say nothing of the pleasure, will ten times re- 
pay the slight trouble. This pottery is located on Federal 
street, near the Eastern depot. The clay used is obtained 
from the dry beds of the ancient pottery established in 
Beverly in 1701. Mr. Thomas Pitman, a thorough artist, 
and a connoisseur in ancient ware, is employed in decor- 
ating the various articles. All visitors will receive a wel- 
come from the proprietor and be shown through the works. 
The " sea-shore" section of Beverly, which may prop- 
erly be said to begin at the corner of Washington and 
Lathrop streets, extends to Manchester, a distance of 
seven miles. Every rod of the shore with the exception 
of a few small farms just out of the village, has been 
given over to the wealthy Boston and Salem people for 
summer residences, and they have built on nearly every 
available lot of the water front, and to a great extent on 
all the territory for a quarter or half mile back from the 
shore. Most of these residences are quite extensive, — 
large houses, with stables and green-houses, etc., all sur- 



BEVEBLY. 



rounded by broad law^is and groves, and in some instances 
several acres of field and wood-land. The shore is an 
alternation of bold, rocky points and inlets, coves and 
beaches, affording all necessary facilities for the three in- 
dispensibles to a sea-shore summer residence, — boating, 
bathing and fishing. A broad highway, known as Hale 
street, skirts the shore from the village to Manchester 
line, sometimes almost at the water's edge and anon a half 
mile from the extreme end of some point. These distant 
projections are reached by branch streets. There are 
many residences in the settled portion of the town equally 
extensive and pleasantly surrounded as some of those on 
the shore. Such for instance as the residence of Dr. 
Haddock, a skilful physician of the town, on Bartlett 
street; the residence of Hon. John I. Baker on Abbott 
street; A. N. Clark and William Endicott on Broadway, 
and Hon. F. W. Choate on Rantoul street. 

If the tour is made in a carriage, we shall, after inspect- 
ing the village, proceed down Washington street to 
Lathrop. The large old-fashioned house on the corner is 
the Rantoul mansion. It has of late, and until his re- 
moval to Lexington, been the summer home of Rev. A. P. 
Putnam of New York. Turning to the left into Lathrop 
street we pass the charming English villa of Wm*. M. 
Whitney. The house is on the land side of the street and 
the estate extends to the water on the opposite side. Just 
beyond here is the Robert Rantoul, Jr. estate, sometimes 
occupied in summer by the family of Chief Justice Gray. 
The unoccupied estate adjoining is the Bancroft estate, 
now as always heretofore the property of the heirs of Rev. 
John P. Hale. Following this street through the valley 
of willows and up a hill to the Louer hose-house, we turn 
to the right into Hale street (named for Rev. John Hale), 
past the cosy residence of Israel Whitney in the little 



^/ 



BEVERLY. 



grove on the knoll at the right, and then from that into 
Ober street jast as we enter the " Cove " village, so-called, 
once known as " mackerel cove." The first sea-shore 
residence which will attract attention is that of Charles 
Elliott on Galloupe's hill on the right. A short distance 
beyond here is the large and elegant estate of B. F. Bur- 
gess, extending about a fourth of a mile from the street 
to the sea, the house standing on Burgess point. Adjoin- 
ing this estate on the same street is William Sohier's 
large residence, and also the Bard well estate. Across 
the cove on the next point of land is Hospital Point light- 
house, reached by a new street leading off Neptune street. 
From the point a fine view is obtained of the Beverly 
shore, Salem, Marblehead, the bay and islands. Return- 
ing to Hale street by way of Neptune street we pass the 
residence of M. W. Shepard. Hale street now leads us 
between two noticeable granite walls extending some dis- 
tance on either side. 

On the water side, but hidden from view, are the resi- 
dences of Wm. D. Pickman and Mrs. Willard Peele. 
These joint estates extend from the sea to the street, and 
from the street back through the woods some distance, 
the whole being modeled after one of those grand old 
English manor-house parks, with drives and foot-paths 
open to the public. The next street is Brackenberry lane, 
which leads to Patehe's beach and the residence of Mrs. 
David Sears, Jr. Returning to Hale street once more we 
next turn off at Prince street. This leads ns to the ele- 
gant residences of John G. Cushing, Richard D. Parker, 
Mrs. John D. Silsbee and S. Endicott Peabody, the first 
named being on the extreme end of Ober's point. Across 
a little cove and beach from here we see the massive 
stone mansion of Mrs. Franklin Dexter, which, from its 
elevated location, presents on the water front something 



BEVERLY. 



of the appearance of a Rhinish castle. The occupant, by 
a slight stretch of the imaj^^iuation, can sing with Byron, 
as he drifts dreamily down the Rhine : 

'• The Castle crag of Drachenfels 
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine, 
Whose breast of waters broadly swell?;, 
Between the banks which bear the vine; 
And hills all rich with blossomed trees, 
And fields which promise corn and wine; 
And scattered cities crowning these, 
Whose far white walls along them shine. 
Have strewed a scene, which I shonld see 
With donble joy wert thou with me." 

Once more back on Hale street we drive through a 
lovely wooded park with the estates of Mrs. Dexter and 
of John G. King on the right, extending to the water, and 
a number of villas in the woods on the opposite side. 
Among them those of George Z. Silsbee, W. G. Salton- 
stall, Mrs. G. H. Shaw, Waldo Higginson, and J. P. Gard- 
ner's heirs. This wood is crossed in all directions by 
driveways and bridle and foot-paths. To the right as we 
emerge from the park is Mingos beach. Adjoining it, and 
extending beyond, is the elegant estate of Mrs. J. S. 
Cabot, and opposite her residence, approached by delight- 
ful driveways from several directions, is the Swiss villa 
of Hon. Martin Brimmer. There are a number of hand- 
some cottages on either side of the road here while on 
the hill a short distance back are the residences of Wil- 
liam Endicott, Jr. and Sidney Bartlett. The next beyond, 
and situated far up the hill on an overhanging rock, is 
another Swiss cottage which belongs to Francis W. 
Palfry and is known as " the crows-nest." The beach on 
the right is Plum Cove beach, and the pretty cottage 
overlooking it is that of C. W. Loriug, which adjoins the 
fine farm of the heirs of C. G. Loring. The estate adjoin- 



Q3 



BEVERLY. 



ing Mr. Palfry's, on the same side of the road at the 
corner of Thissle street, and like Mr. Palfry's located on 
a high ledge, is that 'of Francis Bartlett, approached by a 
circuitous driveway. 

This brings us to the Pride's Crossing railway station. 
The veteran agent here will readily furnish the tourist 
with any desired information. He is the Directory of the 
town. He will tell you that that cottage just across the 
track, up there in the woods, is Mr. James F. Curtis's, 
and the avenue to the left of it, next to Mr. Palfry's, is 
the summer residence of Gen. C. L. Pearson. He will 
tell you that the embowered carriage way which you 
passed on your right just before reaching the station leads 
to the elegant C. W. Loring estate ; that the driveway 
which extends towards the sea from the depot will lead 
you, by numerous diverging paths, to some of the most 
extensive estates on the coast, through parks, groves, 
gardens, and lawns. 

Taking them in order we shall find the following : 
George Gardner, Miss Paine, Wm. C. Paine, John T. 
Morse, Mr. S. B. Schlessinger, John T. Morse, Jr., E. Rollin 
Morse, Mrs. B. F. Thomas, F. Gordon Dexter, Frauklin 
Haven, T. A. Neal, R. S. Rantoul, and Mrs. S. Cabot. 
These form a group of fine cottages scattered through the 
section lying between the railway and the water on the 
one hand, and between the Pride's Crossing and Beverly 
Farms stations on the other. Scarcely one of these 
houses can be seen distinctly from the railway or from 
Hale street. The traveler by rail should leave the cars 
at one of these stations, walk through this series of parks 
to the other station and take the train again. These 
** mansions by the sea " are surrounded by extensive nat- 
ural forests, meadows, fields, lawns, and flower gardens 
interspersed with ponds, streams, carriage roads, bridle 



BEVEBLY. 



paths, and foot-paths. Those who are driving along Hale 
street should take the principal of these carriage roads to 
West beach and follow along that a mile or more to Bev- 
erly Farms, making an exit on "West street. The white 
brick house here is that of Jonathan Preston, the yellow 
one on the westerly side Mrs. E. A. Boardman's, and the 
large establishment on the elevated point beyond is Mr. 
Henry Lee's. 

These private grounds of which we have just spoken 
and the roads through them are mostly open to the public 
in summer, and a drive or walk through them should not 
be omitted. But in so doing the visitor should bear in 
mind that the least recompense ho can make for so much 
pleasure is to conduct himself decorously and not stray 
from the beaten paths picking flowers, trampling the 
lawns, or breaking the limbs of trees and shrubl)ery. 
He ought at least to be as considerate as his English 
cousins who, year after year, travel through the broad 
acres of the "Lord" without ever stepping to the one side 
or the other, thankful that his more favored fellow being 
shares with him thus much. The unique Swiss villa seen 
from Beverly Farms in the distance on a "back" street 
belongs to Mrs. Ozias Goodwin, and near to it is W. B. 
Sewall's cottage. The cottage on a high hill some distance 
from the water in the rear of the depot is Mr. C. H. 
Daltou's. Others in this vicinity are owned by J. Elliot 
Cabot, Dr. II. W. Hooper, Henry Adams, Henry Dexter, 
Mr. Luke, Charles Storrow, and Mrs. Parkman. In the 
wooded park towards Manchester on the right of the road, 
is Mr. S. T. Morse's elegant villa, and nearly opposite, on 
the hill, completely hidden among the trees, is the exten- 
sive estate of Thornton K. Lothrop. 

This completes our visit to Beverly, for just beyond 
here we enter Manchester-by-the-sea. These non-resi- 



9^ 



MANCIIE8 TEB-B Y- THESE A. 



dents have clone much to help build up the town and are a 
great aid to its prosperity. Men now living remember 
when the entire sea-shore section of Beverly was assessed 
for .$25,000; to-day the non-residents alone are assessed 
for several hu-ndred thousands. 



lANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 



History and Description.— The Masconomo House.— 
A Drive Through the Town.— Eagle Head. 

From Beverly we pass to Manchester along the same 
road that we have traveled most of the time since leaving 
Lathrop street. Mancliester-by-the-sea is one of the most 
attractive sea-shore resorts on the Atlantic coast. It ex- 
tends along the shore some four miles, presenting from 
the sea a picturesque front, a charming alternation of 
cragged rocks, forming bold headlands and sandy beaches 
and inlets. The sea dashes against these rocky shores 
with great force in the pleasantest weather, and rolls 
gently in upon the beaches; while in a storm all is 
changed, and the scene is one of wild grandeur, the sea 
lashing the rocks with terrific force and rolling up the 
beach as if it would submerge the dry laud. The air in 
this vicinity is remarkably pure and bracing, and there is 
a freshness in everything around us. There are peculiar 
properties about the climate here which banish asthma 
and hay-fever. A certain ex-mayor of a New England 
city may be found at his cottage on the "Neck" in April 
of each year, and he will tell you, if you ask him why he 
comes so early, that it is because this is the only place in 
the country where he can live in the spring and summer 



MAXCHESTEB-B Y- THESE A. 



on account of asthma. The pretty cottages, some of 
them, with their lawns, forests, flower-gardens and 
drives, remind one forcibly of some bright Swiss or 
French villa, save that they are even more bright and 
cheery. 

Historically, Manchester is one of the oldest settle- 
ments in this section of the country. It was originally a 
part of Salem and was the second municipality taken 
from her territory, having been set off as a separate town 
on May 14, 1645. It was early known as Jeffry's creek, 
so-called from William Jeffry, the first settler. The prin- 
cipal stream of water still bears his name. "When the 
settlement was incorporated as an independent town it 
was called Manchester, presumably in honor of the Duke 
of Manchester. It was once an important fishing port, 
but that business graduall}- died out, owing largely to the 
superior facilities offered by Gloucester. Some years ago 
furniture manufacturing was extensively carried on in the 
village, but that, too, has very much declined. The terri- 
tory of the town comprises only 4,310 acres, and the total 
valuation in 1878 was $2,001,984. The rate of taxation 
was 66.43 on each $1,000. The population is about 
1,600, and the number of polls 434. lu the village 
are three churches — Congregational, Baptist and Catholic 
— eight schools, drug store, and the usual complement of 
shops and business places. As a summer resort Manches- 
ter-by-the-sea has attractions for the permanent resident 
as well as the transient visitor. "With a view to keeping 
the society somewhat select no hotel for summer visitors 
was erected until the spring of 1878, when Mr. Junius B. 
Booth built and opened to the public the Masconomo 
House, one of the best watering place hotels in the 
country. It is a good/ac simile of some of those charm- 
ing hostel ries to be seen around the shores of the Swiss 



57 



3IA NCHE8 TEB- B Y- THE- SEA. 



lakes among the Alps, the best hotels in Europe. Located 
at the top of a gentle elevation, well-kept lawns slope 
away on either side, while immediately in front is a large 
flower garden. At the rear of the house beyond the green 
"platz" is the celebrated Singing beach, which, besides 
being a first class beach for bathin^g, has peculiar musical 
qualities. At the base of the hill in front of the house, 
is JefiVy's creek and Manchester harbor which extends out 
to the sea and aflfords excellent facilities for safe bathing. 

A writer in the New York "Graphic" has written of 
Manchester-by-the-sea and the Masconorao : 

"The Masconomo House, named after the Chief of a 
local tribe of Indians, is builded adjoining and continuous 
with what has been Mr. Booth's beautiful seaside resi- 
dence for some seasons past. And it deserves to be stated 
that in selecting his seaside home Mr. Booth studied the 
coast very thorouglily from Long Branch to Old Orchard. 
Those who follow him in the study and make up their 
conclusions at his hotel will speedily assent to the claim 
that he holds the gem of the North Atlantic sea coast. 
Mr. Booth's estate is a supeib lawn of twelve acres look- 
ing out on a smooth, broad crescent of shore, whose sand, 
by some peculiarity of its particles, actually whistles as you 
tread upon it. Beaten hard by the surf, it is compact and 
almost unyielding to tread or wheel, and, sloping gently, has 
a splendid floor for the bather, with no perils from under- 
tow, the reefs, far outside, receiving the first force of the 
sea. "The Singing Beach " is famous in the guide-books. 
Appleton makes mention of it; so have the tourist's let- 
ters for years. The beach has this other feature of espe- 
cial value to our Northern sea-coast resorts. By the trend 
of the shore line it fronts almost due south, and the 
dreaded northeast winds come to the Masconomo House 
across eight miles of pine woods, tempering the blast that 



MANCHESTER-B Y- THE- SEA. 



rr 







Sa. 



?1 



<;^9 



3IANCIIESTEE-B T- THE- SEA. 



is most troublesome to the seashore visitor or resident. 
The hotel has 240 feet frontage, with a depth of flfty-two 
feet; three and a half stories in height, with twenty-two 
rooms ; a dining-room 77 feet by 32 feet wide, and an 
office, etc., on first floor; twenty- four rooms on the second 
and thirty rooms on the third floor, making 106 rooms in 
all. The building is 89 feet high from first floor, with a 
large octagon observatory over the centre, which is 70 
feet above water mark, 12 feet wide and 16 feet long. The 
broad hall-way, from front to rear entrance, has a large 
octagon hall in the centre, 18 by 22 feet, having in it four 
fireplaces, each 3^ feet wide, in which to, have the pleasant 
old open log fires during any cold or stormy evening; 
and from this centre hall is a hallway, 12 feet wide from 
end to end of the house; at one end is the entrance to 
the dining-room, an air}' and beautiful room with fine sea 
views from all its windows. The hotel is lighted with 
gas. Connected with it is a large stable with a stud of 
horses and plenty of carriages." 

The majority of the summer residents here are people 
of means and culture from Boston, New York, Philadel- 
phia and elsewhere, who have built fine residences and 
ornamented their grounds with great skill and taste. The 
place has always been noted as the summer rendezvous of 
people of literary and artistic tastes. Such are James T. 
Fields, the author, lecturer and former publisher, Rev. 
Cyrus A. Bartol, D.D., one of the most emminent divines 
in the country, Mr. and Mrs. Junius B. Booth and John 
G. Gilbert, worthy representatives of the stage, Richard 
H. Dana, Jr., lawyer and statesman. Rev. E. P. Tenny, the 
novelist, and many others one might add. The drives in 
town and through neighboring towns and cities are un- 
usually attractive;. The drives of Essex County are 
famous. Those of other Cape towns have been elsewhere 



MANCHESTEB-B Y- THE- SEA. 



described ; j'ou may ride for miles through pathways of 
cultivated and costly estates, or, turning inland, you may 
drive for hours in deep woods, through pleasant valleys 
and farms or in silent forests. The roads of Manchester- 
by-the-sea are among the best in Essex County. Arrange- 
ments have been made by which a line of woods will be 
maintained forever on either side of the "road to Essex," 
and the town has recently appropriated money to com- 
plete a circular drive around by the beautiful Chebacco 
lakes, and return over a new road direct to Manchester- 
by-the-sea. 

The traveler driving through the town will note first 
as he enters it the cottage away to the right in the woods 

near the w^ater. This is 
the residence of Mr. Benj. 
G. Boardman, and very 
near it is that of his son T. 
Dennie Boardman. Mr. 
Boardman also owns the 
cottage at West Manches- 
ter on the point of rocks 
near the railway. The 
large peculiarly shaped 
house near the top of the 
high hill as we 'enter the 
town is Mr. Henry L. Hig- 
ginson's, built in 1879. It is a sort of Schonberg castle, 
and would be much more like that famous structure, in 
miniature, were it of granite. On the further side of the 
hill is a road leading to West Manchester depot and a 
cluster of summer cottages. Among them are those of 
N. B. Mansfield, Dr. Bartol and W. C. Cabot. Dr. Bar- 
tol's is the cottage with the tower on top, and near it is 
his observatorv. 




3/ 



MANCHESTEB-B Y- THE- 8 E A. 



The road over which we are driving takes us through 
Manchester village, situated at the mouth of JeflYy's creek 
and at the head of the harbor, an arm of the sea which 
makes up about a half mile. Passing the town house and 
Congregational Church, we turn to the left and follow 
Railroad avenue across the railway and up the hill to the 
Masconomo. The red- roofed Swiss villa on the ledge — 
"Thunderbolt-rock" — to the left, is the residence of 
James' T. Fields. At the top of this hill we turn to the 
right on to the " Old Neck Road " (why not call it Masco- 
nomo avenue). The large mansion on the right, backed 
by a fine grove, is the residence of Mrs. Mary C. Martin. 
Opposite to it are the estates of Mrs. Jedediah Cobb, Rus- 
sell Sturgis, Jr., Esq., a retired Boston merchant, and 
Lewis Cabot, the latter including a large orchard. These 
estates once formed a part of the Hemenway estate. This 
road will lead us to Gale's point, a territory of seventy- 
four acres, owned by Dr. Bartol, which he has recently 
put into the market. He has built a winding carriage 
road around the Neck, making a drive equally as grand 
as that around Marblehead Neck, and very romantic from 
its tortuous course. Keeping to the right, the road 
passes between the fine residences of Hon. J. Warren 
Merrill of Cambridge and Hon. E. E. Rice of Boston, the 
former on the knoll above and the latter directly opposite. 
Below Mr. Rice's is the red-roofed cottage of Prof. O. S. 
Eowler, and beyond that, on the shore of the harbor, the 
white cottage of Augustus W. Smith, being a portion of 
the old Smith farm. Continuing along this road to the 
extreme point we reach the new estate of George B. 
Howes of Boston, which, when completed (it is now, 
May, 1879, building), will be unsurpassed by any resi- 
dence on the North shore. The elevation is nearly a 



3IANCHESTEB-B Y- THESE A, 



hundred feet above water level and the point lies out in 

the open sea, 

" Where the waves are wild 
And the winds are free," 

and where, during a southeaster, the seas break on the 
granite cliffs with the roar of a thunder-storm, throwing 
high their foam and spray. 

We return to the old road by a driveway along the 
the southeasterly side of the Neck. At the Masconomo 
we visit "Singing beach." The musical sound here will 
be noticed only when the sand is dry. When struck with 
the heel of the shoe or by an incoming wave it sends 
forth a peculiar musical sound. The pretty summer cot- 
tage standing off the beach road near the hotel is L. N. 
Tappan's. Just beyond the Masconomo a street branches 
off the Old Neck road to a number of cottages, including 
John G. Gilbert's, the last on the left before entering the 
grove, and Mrs. Stephen H. Bullard's, the last on the 
right, and terminating at the charming English villa of 
Mrs. John H. Towne of Philadelphia. The visit to Mrs. 
Towne's should by all means include Eagle-head, that 
grandest old headland of Massachusetts Bay. Leaving 
the carriage we walk down any of the embowered paths 
leading to the base of the ledge and then clamber up its 
steep side until we are on a level with the tops of the 
trees and one hundred and thirty feet above the sea, which 
breaks along the cragged rocks at our feet. Now it rolls 
softly, almost noiselessly up the side of some sloping 
ledge, and anon dashes against a perpendicular front as if, 
in its anger, it would tear the huge headland from its foun- 
dation. The white-winged craft which sail to and fro be- 
low us, as we sit here, look like toy ships. This on a 
lovely May afternoon. How changed the scene on a dark 



33 



MANCHE8TEB-B Y- THE- SEA. 



■winter's night wlien a southeasterly storm rages. The 
damp snow which half blinds us makes the distance to the 
water seem double what it really is. The wild waves bear 
down on our post like an army attacking a fort, as if, in 
their wild rush, they fain would carry all before them. 
As they approach nearer, rolling now like mountains, 
they seem to pause for a moment as if for renewed breath, 
and then to throw themselves against the giant rock in a 
perfect rage. And yet we feel not their blow. But for 
the roar of their bursting and falling back we should 
never know of their presence, for their spray is mingled 
with the driving storm. They crumble like dead forest 
leaves beneath the feet; they are "dashed into countless 
fragments " and thrown into the air like so much chaff. 
All along the shore, though in a somewhat milder degree, 
perhaps, the same process is going on. Above the beat- 
ing of the storm, above the howling of the forest trees as 
they bend before the wind, rises the roar of this furious 
war of the waters and the rocks, like ten thousand infu- 
riated demons, each bent on destroying the other and rul- 
ing both land and sea. It is difficult at such a time to 
believe the sea inanimate. And though it seems as a toy 
compared with the granite ledges upon which it appar- 
ently has no effect, still, 

•'These restless surges eat away the shores 
Of earth's old continent; tlie fertile plain 
Welters in shallows, headlands crumble down, 
And the tide drifts the sea-sands in tlie streets 
Of the drowned city." 

Returning again to the main road near the village cem- 
etery we proceed towards Gloucester, There are but few 
more sea-shore estates until we reach Magnolia, and those 
are situated some distance from the highway and practi- 



MAGNOLIA. 



cally out of sight. The large old-fashioned house some 
distance to the right which we see, about the time we 
cross the railway after leaving the village, is the Dana 
house, the first summer residence built in Manchester. 
During many years, and until his death in 1878, it was the 
summer home of Hon. Richard H. Dana, the scholar and 
poet, the friend, companion and contemporary of the poet 
Bryant, and the contemporary of Caleb Gushing. It is 
now occupied by Mr. Dana's son, Richard H. Dana. On 
the shore in the vicinity of the Dana estate, but hidden 
from the highway by intervening forests, are the pleasant 
estates of Greely S. Curtis and Mrs. Emily T. Curtis. 
These and the Dana residence may be seen by driving 
through the w^oods along either of two carriage paths. 
The settlement just beyond the woods is known as Kettle 
Cove. There are a few farms here and some fishermen's 
houses ; also two or three summer cottages. The estate 
of T. Jefi'erson Coolidge lies ofl" to the right across the 
cove on a point of laud. His residence is one of the most 
costly on the shore. Near Crescent beach is the Crescent 
Beach House, a pleasantly located summer hotel kept 
by Mr. Allen Kno.wlton. 

The inhabitants of this section of territory are desirous 
of being set off as a town by themselves. Mr. Knowlton 
has been a prime mover in the matter. The line desired, 
starts from the shore a short distance from Crescent 
beach, and runs straight inland to the junction of Man- 
chester and Essex, about four miles, thence back to the 
seashore just below Norman's Woe, making a triangular 
section of about four square miles, with some seventy 
houses, and, allowing four persons to a family, 280 in- 
habitants. The shore line would be about four and a 
half miles. The distance to the voting place in Ward 8, 
Gloucester, is about four miles, and to Manchester town 



MAGNOLIA. 



house over three miles. The residents here have a 
chapel and schoolhouse. It is proposed to bring the 
subject before the Legislature next winter. The Crescent 
Beach House was built in 1873, and has been enlarged 
annually since, until now it will accommodate 150 guests. 
The neat and prelty farm cottage opposite is occupied by 
Rev. Henry W. Foote, of Kings Chapel. Mr. Knowlton 
is numbered among those few who know how to keep a 
hotel, as his increasing patronage shows. He has a 
superior location, a fine house, and provides a first-class 
table, leaving nothing to be desired by the guests. His 
house is sheltered from the north and east winds by the 
dense woods, a short distance inland. In the cove the 
opportunities for boating are excellent. 

At the head of the beach, not far from the hotel, Rev. 
James Freeman Clarke is to build a fine residence, which 
he will occupy every summer. Other parties will build 
here ere long, and, with good roads and proper municipal 
arrangements, there seems to be no reason why a good 
sized town by the name of Magnolia may not be formed 
from the two present settlements of Kettle Cove and 
Magnolia. 



MAGNOLIA. 



The Newest Summer Resort. — Hesperus House. — 
Rafe's Chasm. — Norman's Woe. — Magnolia to 
Gloucester. 

About three miles from Manchester and the same dis- 
tance from Gloucester, the traveler over the highway 
from Salem will see, on a guide-board at the corner of two 
roads, the word "Magnolia." The road which this sign 



MAGNOLIA. 



points out to liim leads to one of the newest as it is one 
of the best sea-shore resorts on Cape Ann. The growth 
of Magnolia as a summer resort has been rapid since 
attention was first attracted to it. The first strictly sum- 
mer residence here was built in 1872, by Charles E. 
Billings, "W. O. Trowbridge, J. S. Potter, and Lucien 
Chase, of Newton. 

Mr. Charles C. Goodwin built another in 1873. During 
the intervening years since, some twenty cottages and 
boarding houses and a hotel have been built. Originally 
Magnolia was a fishing and farming settlement. The 
little fishermen's huts are still standing on the shore of 
the cove. The section known as the "Point" was pur- 
chased in 1867 by Mr. Daniel W. Fuller, of Swampscott. 
Mr. Fuller has built several cottages on this land, some 
of which he has sold, others he rents annually', 
and has also sold lots to parties who have built residences 
for themselves. In 1877 he built a hotel on the rising 
ground, a few rods, back from the shore. This he more 
than doubled in size in the spring of 1879, so that now 
the Hesperus House will accommodate about one hundred 
guests. The two wings of the hotel stand some seventy 
feet apart and are connected by a covered walk, in the 
middle of which is a handsome Chinese pagoda. During 
both of the years since the Hesperus was opened, the 
patronage has exceeded the capacity of the house, and 
overflowed into the neighboring cottages. The house 
commands a magnificent view of the bay and ocean, with 
sea views from nearly every room. 

ISTo place on the Cape excels Magnolia in variety of 
attractions. On one side of the point is Crescent beach, 
an excellent beach for bathing, arid a cove for anchorage 
of yachts. In front, the opportunity for fishing from the 



MAGNOLIA. 



rocks is good, while those who wish can put out from the 
shore a mile or two and anchor on deep-water fishing 
grounds, where cod, haddock, and other kind of salt- 
water fish are plenty. To the left, lies a bold rock-bound 
coast. Back of the shore, the dense woods, threaded by- 
innumerable carriage and foot-paths, offer unusual attrac- 
tions to the strollers. Numerous varieties of berries and 
wild flowers grow in profusion along the half-hidden 
paths. In a swamp some two miles distant grows the 
fragrant Magnolia. 

There are two ways of reaching Magnolia besides the 
highway — by rail and by boat. The Magnolia station on 
the Eastern road is about two miles from tlie point, but 
barges connect with all trains to and from Boston in the 
summer season. The Gloucester boats frequently touch, 
here in summer, and sometimes boats run from Salem. 
With the growth of the place the frequency and regularity 
of the boat trips will increase. One of the attractions in 
August is the encampment of the second corps of Cadets, 
M. V. M., a fine company composed of members from 
Salem and vicinity. Their camping-ground is just back of 
the hotel, and the residents enjoy the band concerts and 
all the displays, including the inspection by the governor 
and staff and other dignitaries. 

"The Flume," about a half mile from the hotel, is a 
channel in the cliff, 150 feet in length, 50 feet in depth, 
and 6 in width, with perpendicular sides. 

Rafe's Chasm, a little way beyond, is another attractive 
♦'natural curiosity." It is a channel cut into the solid 
rock, nearly 60 feet in depth, 200 in length, and 10 in 
width. During a storm the water rushes into this channel 
with tremendous force, striking against its sides with the 
sound of thunder, and spouting upwards in torrents. It 



MAGNOLIA. 



reveals most forcibly the power of the ocean, and inspires 
the beholder to sing with the poet : — 

O Father! — "who forgets not, at the sight 
Of these tremendous tokens of thy power, 
His pride, and lays his strifes and follies by? 
Oh, from these sterner aspects of thy face 
Spare me and mine, nor let us need the wrath 
Of the mad unchained elements to teach 
"Who rules them. Be it ours to meditate 
In these calm shades thy milder majesty, 
And to the beautiful order of thy works 
Learn to conform the order of our lives." 

The reef of Norman's Woe is an island rock a short 
distance from the high cliffs of the mainland. It was 
here, tradition sa3's, that the schooner Hesperus was 
wrecked in the latter part of the seventeenth century. 
The Probate records of Essex County show that a Rich- 
ard Norman, about 1680, sailed on a voyage from which 
he never returned, and if the tradition is founded upon 
fact, the tragic termination of his voyage was probably 
on this reef. But the event has a peculiar and added 
interest from the fact that the poet Longfellow immor- 
talized it in verse. The sad story of the shipwreck is 
thus told by him. We quote his poem in part : — 

"It was the schooner Hesperus, 
That sailed the wintry sea ; 
And the skipper had taken his little daughter, 
To bear him company. 

The skipper he stood beside the helm 

With his pipe in his mouth, 
And watched how the veering flaw did blow 

The smoke, now west, now south. 

Colder and louder blew the wind, 

A gale from the north-east; 
The snow fell hissing in the brine. 
And the billows frothed like yeast. 



3? 



MAGNOLIA. 



Down came the storm, and smote amain 

The vessel in its strength; 
She shuddered and paused like a frighted steed, 

Then leaped her cable's length. 

'Come hither I come hither I my little daughter, 

And do not tremble so; 
For I can weather the roughest gale 

That ever wind did blow.' 

He wrapped her warm in his seaman's coat, 

Against the stinging blast; 
He cut a rope from a broken spar, 

And bound her to the mast. 

' O, father 1 I hear the church-bells ring : 

Oh, say, what may it be ? ' 
' 'Tis a fog-bell on a rockbound coast I ' — 

And he steered for the open sea. 

* O, father I I see a gleaming light : 

Oh, say, what may it be ?' 
But the father answered never a word, 
A frozen corpse was he. 

Lashed to the helm, all stiff and stark, 

With his face turned to the skies, 
The lantern gleamed through the gleaming snow 

On his fixed and glassy eyes. 

And fast through the midnight dark and drear, 
Through the whistling sleet and snow, 

Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept, 
Towards the reef of Norman's Woe. 

The breakers were right beneath the bows. 

She drifted a dreary wreck, 
And a whooping billow swept the crew 

Like icicles from her deck. 

She struck where the white and fleecy waves 

Looked soft as carded wool, 
But the cruel rocks, they gored her side, 

Like the horns of an angry bull. 



MAGNOLIA. 



Her rattling shrouds all sheathed in ice, 

With the masts went by the board; 
Like a vessel of glass, she stove and sunk: — 

Ho 1 ho I the brealiers roared I 

At daybreak, on the bleak sea-beach, 

A fisherman stood aghast, 
To see the form of a maiden fair, 

Lashed close to a drifting mast. 

The salt sea was frozen on her breast, 

The salt tears in her eyes ; 
And he saw her hair like the brown sea- weed, 

On the billows fall and rise. 

Such was the wreck of the Hesperus 

In the midnight and the snow ! 
Christ save us all from a death like this. 

On the I'eef of Norman's Woe 1 " 

" Hesperus Gulch" is still another ravine, or channel in 
the ledge, into which the seas run with great force. 

There is a rough carriage-road running from here to 
Western Avenue, joining the latter near "Brook Bank," 
about a mile and a half from town. Or, we can return to 
Magnolia point and go from there to the main highway as 
we came. By the latter plan we have a pleasant, wooded 
road of about two miles. We emerge from the woods at 
the head of Fresh-water cove, an inlet from Gloucester 
outer harbor. It is of sea water, but derives its name 
from the fact that a stream of fresh water empties into it. 
The English villa on the right, with lawns sloping away 
to the edge of the cave, is "Brook Bank," the residence 
of Mr. Samuel E. Sawyer, who gave a liberal sum to 
found a public library in Gloucester, and for whom the 
library is named. The fine mansion belonging to the 
George F. Hovey estate, formerly stood in the grove 
beyond, at the top of the hill, but was burned in the 
winter of 1878-9. The surroundings, like those of 
"Brook Bank," were of the nature of an English villa. 



^/ 



3fAGN0LIA. 



It was on this hill, looking over the sea and up and down 
the coast, that Epes Sargent was inspired to sing : — 

" Look 1 All the lighthouses 
Flash greeting to the night. There Eastern Point 
Flames out ! Lo, little Ten Pound Island follows 1 
See Baker's Island kindling I Marblehead 
Ablaze I Egg Rock, too, off Nahaut, on fire ! 
And Boston Light winking at Minot's Ledge I 
Like the wise virgins, all with ready lamps I" 

The avenue now follows along the side of the hill, the 




"HESPERUS GULCH," 1 MILE FROM HESPERUS HOUSE. 

trees and houses far above us on the left, and the ocean 
sixty or seventy feet below us on the right. On one of 



GLOUCESTEB. 



these cliflfs above is the cottage formerly occupied by the 
late Eben Dale and now the summer residence of his fam- 
ily. Between here and the town is some attractive nat- 
ural scenery, and among the handsome residences is that 
of John Bray on the next hill, to the right. Instead of 
following the avenue the traveler will enter the field on 
the shore side and drive along the carriage path past old 
Stage Fort. This is supposed to be the site of the first 
settlement on Cape Ann. There is little doubt but that 
Conant's " large frame house " which was moved to Salem 
was built in close proximity to the old breastwork here. 
This land is all in the market, but certain stringent condi- 
tions attached to all sales have greatly retarded settle- 
ment. The end of our tour to Gloucester city is soon 
reached, the distance being only a half mile further and 
the scenery pleasant. 



GLOrCESTER. 



A Drive Through the Town. — Representative Busi- 
ness HousEg.— History of Churches. — The Fishing 
Business. 

TVe enter Gloucester by "Western avenue and cross the 
town by Main street. There are some fine business houses 
along this thoroughfare. We have space to refer to but 
few of them and therefore select representative firms in 
difi'erent lines of goods. One of the most attractive stores 
is Tappan's Clothing house established in 1833. This firm 
occupy a handsome new block, 24 feet front and 80 feet 
depth, built especially for their business. On the first 
floor is the large sales-room and on the second floor the 
work-rooms where all the goods are manufactured. Near 



Hs 



GL0UCE8TEB. 



Tappan's is Pattillo's Dry-goods house, one of the largest 
of its Ivind on tlie Cape. This establishment has something 
of a history. It was burnt out in the great fire of 1864, 
again in 1870, and still again in 1873, and now occupies a 
large and handsome store in the heart of the city. W. J. 
Maddocks and Daniel D. Sanders represent the pharma- 
cists of the town, on opposite sides of the street, both in 
fine locations and neatly arranged stores. Mr. F. M. 
Loring near the Post Office, is the principal manufacturer 
and dealer in hardware and its attendants, always having 
an immense stock on hand. These are but a few of the 
many reputable business houses in town, and we can recom- 
mend them to the reader as just what they are here rep- 
resented to be. 

There are no *' special" sights in the city to attract the 
traveler. The fishing wharves should, by all means, be 
visited and also the fine new city building. 

The Eastern railway station is situated on the northerly 
side of the town and is a handsome structure, built in 1878. 
The cars leave here for Rockport and for Salem, Boston 
and all stations on the line, five times each way, every day 
(Sunday excepted), and in the Summer season a sixth 
train is run. From here, too, on the arrival of all trains, 
coaches depart for East Gloucester, Bay View, and Lanes- 
ville. Hacks are always plenty. There is no restaurant 
in the station but a good one kept by Mrs. Doe near by 
will satisfy the hungry tourist. 

And now a word about Gloucester itself. History in- 
forms us that two or three expeditions visited the vicinity 
of Cape Ann early in the seventeenth century and one 
entered Gloucester harbor as early as 1606. The first at- 
tempt at settlement however was made by the Dorchester 
Company which sent over two ships in 1624. The further 
progress of this settlement is thus tersely described in 



GLOUCESTER. 



" Old Nanmkeag" under the chapter relating to the settle- 
ment of Salem. "When Conant arrived at Cape Ann, 
"Which must have been some time in the fall of 1625, he 
found affairs in an unsatisfactory state. The fishing had 
turned out unprofitable and there was much insubordina- 
tion. He was unable to revive the interest and in the fall 
of 1626 the settlement broke up, a portion of the people 
returning to England. Conant, it appears, had sailed 
along the shores of Cape Ann as far as the Naumkeag 
river during the summer of that year, and marked it as 
one suitable for his purposes. He succeeded in inducing 
those of the settlers who had not already returned to the 
mother country to follow him to Naumkeag. They left 
Cape Ann m September or October, 1626, taking with 
them all of their household goods and efiects and imple- 
ments of husbandrj\" 

Mr. John J. Babson, in a recent work on Gloucester, 
tells us that there is no certainty as to when the first per- 
manent settlement of Cape Ann was begun. It was prob- 
ably as early as 1633. In May 1642 the settlement was 
incorporated by the General Court as a plantation under 
the name of Gloucester — the name of the town in England 
from which most of the first settlers came. Selectmen 
were first chosen in 1642 at a town meeting held in May 
or June. A church was organized under Rev. Eichard 
Blymman, probably in 1643. John Emerson, the third 
minister was paid " 60 pounds per annum in Indian corn, 
peas, barley, fish, mackerel, beef or pork." He served 
40 years or more. Eev. John White, who succeeded him, 
was ordained April 21, 1709. The church then had 70 
members. At the end of his fifty-first year as a pastor it 
contained 260 members after three new churches had been 
organized out of the parish. He died at the age of 83, 
having served as pastor of this church 58 years. In the 



GLOUCESTEB. 



year 1743, the population having outgrown the agricultu- 
ral capacity of the place, a number of young men emigrated 
to a township in Maine about twenty miles from Portland 
which they named New Gloucester in honor of the parent 
town. Among the citizens of the new town we may now 
find the names of some of the earlier settler at Cape Ann, 
such as Eveleth, Grover, Haskell, Evans (properly Nevens) 
Skellin (now Skillings), Fogg, Rowe, Wharff, Witham 
and others. Our municipal history of Gloucester may be 
closed with the incorporation as a city on April 28, 1873, 
and the inauguration of Robert R. Eears as the first mayor 
in 1874. Its population by the United States census of 
1870 was 15,389. 

In addition to the First Parish, of which mention has 
already been made, there were organized, the following :— 

Second parish. West Gloucester, 1716; Third Parish, 
Annisquam, 1728, Fourth Parish, 1742; Fifth Parish, San- 
dy Bay, 1754; Independent Christian Society, 1779; First 
Baptist, Rockport, 1811 ; Second Baptist, 1830; First Meth- 
odist, 1821; Second Methodist, 1826; Third Methodist, 
1870; Evangelical Society, 1829; North Orthodox, Cong, 
society, 1831; Catholic, 1849 ; St. John's, Episcopal; East 
Gloucester Baptist; Swedenborgian ; West Gloucester 
Universalist; Lanesville Universalist. 

The town of Gloucester originally included the entire 
portion of the headland on the northerly side of Massa- 
chusetts Bay, known as Cape Ann and also a portion of 
nearly equal extent running back on the cape to Manches- 
ter. The present city is divided into six distinct villages, 
East Gloucester ; Annisquam on the North side of the Cape ; 
Bay View; Lanesville; West Gloucester, and Gloucester 
village, oi city proper, which borders on the harbor. Each 
of these villages has a post-office. The harbor is one of 
the best ports on the coast, safe and easy of access, and 



GLOUCESTEB. 



of depth sufficient to float the largest vessel. The princi- 
pal portion of the city proper, lying around the harbor, is 
compactly built and picturesquely situated. There are no 
extensive manufactories in the city. Such small ones as 
there are, are confined to the manufacture of articles per- 
taining to the fisheries. There are six marine railways 
and 70 wharves, on the harbor. The private residences 
are of the ordinary character to be found in all small cities ; 
likewise the stores and other semi-public places. There 
are also insurance companies, banks — national and sav- 
ings — two newspapers — "Cape Ann Advertiser" and "The 
Bulletin." 

Gloucester, as is well-known, is the most extensive 
fishing port in the country if not in the world. The bus- 
iness began to be actively pursued in the eighteenth cen- 
tury. In 1841 it had so increased that seventy fishing 
vessels were owned in the town. In 1775 the number had 
increased to eighty of an aggregate tonage of 4000 and 
an average value of $1400. Besides these fishermen in dis- 
tant waters, some seventy vessels were employed in fish- 
ing in home waters. The Grand Bank fishing had, in 
1825, from various causes, dwindled to almost nothing. 
The home fisheries increased, in the mean time, so that 
by 1828 the value of the cod-fisheries was $120,000. After 
some years, vessels went to the Georges, and eventually. 
Grand Bank fishing was renewed with the old time enter- 
prise. The catching of mackerel in Massachusetts Bay is 
now, also, an extensive pursuit and highly remunerative. 
The extent of the fisheries of Gloucester will be compre- 
hended from the following figures : — 

In 1865 the number of vessels engaged, was 341, having 
an aggregate tonage of 24,450 and employing 4090 men. 
The capital invested was $1,865,700; amount of mackerel 
caught, 154,938 barrels, valued at $2,190,562; cod and 



f7 



GLOUCESTEB. 



other dry fish, 113,028 quintals, worth $706,425; value of 
cod-liver oil sold, $90,420. The total value of all the fish- 
ery products was $3,319,457. The figures for 1873 are as 
follows:— Codfish, 460,000 quintals, valued at $2,070,000; 
other fish, 25,000 quintals, valued at $50,000; fresh fish, 
including halibut, 9,000,000 pounds, valued at $310,000; 
oil, 275,000 gallons, valued at $165,000; mackerel, 86,544 
barrels, valued at $1,125,000; herring, 5,000 barrels, val- 
ued at $23,000; shell-fish, 18,000 barrels, valued at $18,000 
miscellaneous, $40,000; total value of the fisheries for the 
year 1873, $3,800,000. There were 375 vessels with 3,500 
men engaged in the business that year. The figures for 
subsequent years are not reliable, those of the State cen- 
sus of 1875 being especially faulty. The figures for 1876 
were:— cod, 2,020,297; halibut, 679,754; mackerel, 710,- 
201. These figures are ample to indicate the enormous 
extent of the fishing business of this port. This work, 
as all know, is attended with very great danger, nearly as 
great as that of active service in the army in the time of 
war. Since 1830, 250 or more vessels and more than 1800 
lives have been lost in the fisheries. During the year 
1873, alone, 31 vessels and 174 lives were lost. 

The Gloucester custom's district includes the towns of 
Manchester, Rockport and Essex. The commerce of the 
city is very limited, particularly with foreign ports. The 
exports during 1873 amounted to only $1,512 and the im- 
ports to $60,735. The latter was mainly of salt, used in 
the fisheries; about one hundred thousand hogsheads 
being required annually. The other imports were of fire- 
wood, fish and potatoes from the provinces. The total 
number of vessels, sloops, schooners and boats belonging 
to the port and used in its business, is 446, measuring 28,- 
621 tons and manned by about 490 men. 



EST^BLISHEID 1835. 



&nxt\$ ^mU & 



21 Merchants Eow, Boston, Mass. 




♦t 



The oldest and most noted manufacturers of Soap in 
New England, makers of those celebrated brands, "Ameri- 
can Peerless," "Curtis Davis' Extra," "Gold Dust," &c., 
would most respectfully iuvite attention to a new brand 
of their goods, called 




'W'l':2i\P=l 



a^V^3fiTi;;0^5^<3'' 



E3:^%£G?SSK<3 T^T^^XTCOS^I 




made of the finest grade of stock ever used in the manu- 
facture of Domestic Soaps; remarkable for the Toilet; 
unequalled for the Bath or Laundr}'. 

A trial will be a sufficient recommendation of its 
excellence, and will convince all of its superiority over 
cheaper or inferior grades for all practical uses. 

Please ask your grocer for a sample of the above- 
mentioned brand of 

■VT" IE Xj o o nvn E , 




and you will not only be satisfied of the truth of these 
assertions, but approve of the introduction of this class 
of goods, and appreciate the use of the Higher Grades 
OF Soap. 

g^^The reputation obtained by this firm has been 
secured by the use of the best material, and has led to 
manj^ and varied imitations of their brands, but only such 
as bear the name of "Curtis" preceding the name of 
"Davis" on bar or wrapper, represent their goods. 



^ t^^r"^:^- f"i> '. ^j*-"^ 









^^'iV ^w;fe:£:<f ;V^ff=^ 






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IN 



VISIT 




a 1E1 1^ IE 



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172 SSSS2Z STB.SST, 



SALEM, MASS. 





EAST GLOUCESTEB. 



EAST GLOUCESTER. 



Bass Eock. — The Bass Rock House. — Eastern Point 
Light. 

And now let us turn our attention to the surroundings 
of the old fishing town on the easterly side. This section 
is known as East Gloucester and is reached hy stage or 
carriage, by way of East Main street. Ascending the 
high hill back of the town we behold a magnificent pano- 
rama. Below US' lie the city and the harbor with its ship- 
ping, and the fishing vessels going and coming. Perhaps 
it is a brave fisherman who has just bid his wife and 
children farewell forever, for he may be starting on his 
last voyage ; or perchance a vessel returning from the 
Banks to tell of storm and loss of life. 0, what messages 
of joy and sorrow these little crafts bear as they pass to 
and fro this harbor! Back of this picture across the har- 
bor and town is nature's setting of granite hills and dense 
woods, broken here and there by a green field. If the 
day be clear, we see the Cape Ann shore towards Salem, 
then Salem harbor, the bay, half-way rock, Marblehead 
with the tall tower of Abbot Hall, old Boston light, and 
the South Shore with its burning sands, in striking con- 
trast with the cool green hills of the North Shore. Away 
to the right towards Essex is Beacon Pole hill. On the 
ocean side is the broad Atlantic, unbroken save by the 
numerous tiny sail, of which the writer counted at one 
\ime more than a hundred on the first day of May. A 
little to the left lie Salt Island, Milk Island, and Thatcher's. 
Beach avenue leads to Little Good beach and Bass Rock. 
The summer settlement here is known as the Bass Rock 
settlement. The land was formerly the property of George 



5 



EAST GL0UCE8TEB. 



H. Rogers. Mr. Rogers, knowing full well the advan- 
tages of the place as a summer resort, expended more 
than one hundred thousand dollars in improving it and 
bringing it into the market. He did not live to realize 
his hopes and witness the fulfilment of his predictions. 
On his death the estate became the property of the Glou- 
cester Land Company. Much of it was thus brought into 
the market and a score or more houses built, some of 
them of good size and all well made. A good hotel was 
also erected. The entire estate, including the unsold 
building lots, the hotel and several cottages, has now 
become the property of Mr. Henry Souther of South Bos- 
ton. He has put it into the market and will begin at once 
the work of building up the place. It is a place of un- 
usual picturesque situations and there are scores of the 
finest building sites on the coast now thrown into the 
market at low prices. Locations may be selected here to 
suit all tastes— on the ledges overhanging the water, 
on the edge of the beach, on the high hill some distance 
back, or in medium localities between these two extremes. 
Edwin P. Whipple, writing from the Bass Rock House 
(formerly Whiting's) in July, 1878, said :— 

" To an ordinary July observer the principal productions 
of this portion of Cape Ann seem to be rocks and roses. 
Hence it is, I suppose, that the air in the hot season is so 
sweet, pure, and invigorating. You cannot have rich 
vegetation and beautiful meadows without sultriness and 
its horrible moral consequences; but the gaunt, bleak 
rocks, which make vegetation almost impossible, and put 
down with a strong hand the timid efforts of gra ss to go 
through the process which ends in a profitable crop of 
hay, are the grand agents which brace up and restore to 
normal strength, constitutions debilitated by the stifled 
and corrupt summer atmosphere of large cities. There 



I 



EAST GLOUCESTEB. 



are two places in Massachusetts where this sterility of 
the soil promotes the good of the soul, as ftir as the soul 
is influenced by physical conditions. One is inland, the 
town of Princeton. The second place is Cape Ann. You 
go over this wilderness and laugh at the potato patches 
with their grim surroundings of rocks, big enough for 
the missiles which the insurgent Titans hurled against 
the gods ; you think that if the potatoes ever reach the 
family board they will partake of the hardness of their 
geological companions, and that the peculiar "mealiness" 
which is the only quality which makes the potato a pala- 
table article of food, will never characterize the potato 
raised in Cape Ann. Now, it is to be said'for Mr. Rogers, 
who lost his hard-earned property in trying to make a 
summer town in this region of Good Harbor Beach and 
the Bass Eocks, that he discovered the purpose nature 
had in view in pushing this part of Cape Ann out into the 
Atlantic Ocean ; for he saw that it was nearly surrounded 
by water, and that the hot winds — the south, the south- 
east, and the southwest — came directly over the sea. He 
was simply a little ahead of the time, and was ruined. In 
ten or twenty years the summer population will be num- 
bered by thousands, for there is no place so easily accessi- 
ble from Boston, which can be compared to it in sanitary 
qualities. 

And now for the roses. I got up early this morning, 
and walked down the road leading to the sea. The path 
was all ablaze with wild roses. The air was not only 
cool, but it had a virginal freshness. It seemed that the 
world was in the process of creation, and that this was 
the morning of the fifth day. It brings to mind that pas- 
sage in Herrick where he celebrates the morning dew as 



•Those tender showers. 
Which, at the peep o' day, bestrew 
Their baptism o'er the flowers.' " 



i 



^3 



EAST GLOUCESTEB. 



Col. Edgar J. Sherman, of Lawrence, has the finest 
private residence here. In fact it has no equal for loca- 
tion on 'the whole shore. It occupies the extreme point 
of the overhanging ledge of Bass Rock itself. From his 
piazza a pebble can be dropped into the sea seventy feet 
below. The waves beat against this rock at all times, 
and during a storm the scene is one of unsurpassed 
grandeur; the angry sea dashes against the rock with 
tremendous force. Col. Sherman can sing with T. B. 

Read : — 

" My house is built on the cliff's tall cvest 
As high as an eagle might choose her nest; 
The builders have descended the hill 
Like spirits who have done their master's will. 
Below, the billows in endless reach, 
Commune in uncomprehended speech." 

The Bass Rock House occupies a sightly position on the 
corner of Beach and Bright-side avenues, opposite the site 
which the late Mr. Rogers selected for his own residence. 
It is a comparatively new hotel, accommodating about 
fifty people in large and well-furnished rooms. Mr. and 
Mrs. Ami Brown have leased the house for the season of 
1879. Mrs. Brown has heretofore kept a first-class 
summer hotel at New Rochelle, Long Island, and comes 
to Cape Ann with a view to abiding here permanently. 
The guests»at the hotel will of course enjoy all the advan- 
tages of the place which we have described, including the 
excellent beach with its high-rolling surf. Coaches 
connect with every train to and from Boston. 

The settled portion of East Gloucester is composed 
mainly of fishermen's hamlets and the shops for the 
manufacture of fishing goods, in the lower section ; and 
of the better class of dwellings and summer boarding 
houses farther up the hill. Among the important manu- 
factures of the place perhaps none ranks higher than 



EAST GLOUCESTEB. 



copper-paint, manufactured here very largely by Tarr & 
Wonson, and James H. Tarr. This is a paint composed 
mainly of ground copper and tar mixed, and is used to 




paint the bottoms of vessels. At the manufactory of 
Tarr & Wonson an immense business is done. The copper 
is ground, dried, and mixed by machinery. From the 



EA8T GLOUGESTEB. 



time it disappears in the mill until it goes into the tin 
cans, ready for use, it is not handled at all. During this 
time it has passed from the second floor to the first; then 
back to the second, then to the first again, next to the 
basement, where it is mixed, and lastly is pumped to the 
second floor, where it is canned. 

The drive to Eastern Point lighthouse is over an ex- 
tremely rongh road, and those who find any pleasure in 
walking will enjoy the trip much the better on foot. It 
is not more than a mile and a half from the Delphine 
House at East Gloucester. The " Delphine," by the way, 
is the only other principal hotel in this part of Gloucester. 
Its situation is, in every way, favorable ; bathing beaches, 




SURF BATHING 

fishing and boating are in close proximity, and it is in 
easy connection with all trains by stage. The house has 
ample accommodations for fifty or more boarders, and 
sets a good table. Mrs. H. M. Dann is proprietor. She 
has had long experience in the business and is in every 
way well qualified for it. A short distance beyond the 
hotel we come to the Niles farm, the terminus of the 
public way. The entire remaining portion of the point 
is included in this great farm. There is a driveway along 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



the beach and through the fields and pastures, if one 
cares to open three or four gates. The lighthouse stands 
on a projecting ledge at the extreme point. It is built of 
granite and painted white. A new keeper's house was 
built in the spring of 1879. The old fort which commands 
Gloucester city and harbor and also the outside coast is \ 
deserted and dismantled ; the barracks used during the \ 
last war are fast going to ruin. Ocean pond is a pretty : 
sheet of fresh water on the Niles farm, extending nearly 
to the ocean on either side. It is very nearly on a level 
with the sea. 



"around the cape/^ 



ROCKPORT AND ItS HiSTORY. — PiGEOX CoVE.— OCEAN 

View Point. — Lanesville. — Bay View. — The Cape 
Ann Granite Company. — Annisquam. 

A " ride around the Cape " should not be omitted if the 
tourist would see Cape Ann in its most characteristic 
features ; see the woods, and hills, and rocks, and points, 
and coves. It is a good fifteen mile journey, and leads 
through about as much changing scenery as is often found 
in the rural districts. AVe will start from the Gloucester 
post-ofiice and leave the town by East Main street. Just 
outside the thickly settled part of the city we ascend a 
hill irom which a good view is obtained of East Glouces- 
ter and the harbor and a part of the city proper. The 
highwaj'^ now traverses a rough section of country. On 
the left are the granite hills, the bold ledges raising their 
crests high above our heads, and thousands of great 
bowlders scattered thickly around, some of which are of 
immense size. Thence over a way newly located, to 



^7 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



avoid a tedious hill, Ave pass directly in front of the resi- 
dence of Hon. John J. Babson, the historian of Glouces- 
ter. Again upon the old road, we cross the line between 
Gloucester and Rockport and enter " the last town on the 
Cape." Soon after entering upon the territory of Eock- 
port we drive through a basin between the hills, where 
we find a large and flourishing farm known as the Beaver 
Dam farm. It is an onsis in the desert of hills, woods 
and rocks. In the woods on the right is Cape Pond grove, 
and back of it towards the ocean, Cape pond itself, a 
lovely sheet of fresh water. 

" Hair hidden 'mid the somber shade, 

A lidge of craggy rock appears, 
With straggling grass and flowers arrayed, 

And with the gathered moss of years. 
In vain would h'ngerers seek to trace 

A path by others trod before, 
For few have well surveyed the place, 

Or wandered round the gloomy shore." 

Beyond Beaver Dam farm and Cape pond rises "Great 
Hill," from the top of which a grand view of the ocean 
and surrounding country is obtained. The rise from the 
pond is very abrupt but the slope on the opposite side to 
Sandy Bay and the town is gradual. This bay and village 
and Pigeon cove and village lie before us in the distance; 
to the left are hills of rock and forests,— Pool's hill, 
Thompson's mountain and Pigeon hill. Amid these rise 
the tall derricks of the great granite quarries. To the 
right lies the open sea with its islands, rocks and white 
sails. Wooden fences are practically unknown in Rock- 
port. It is granite, granite, everywhere. It is the recol- 
lection of the writer that in a drive of some ten miles in 
this section the nearest approach to a wooden fence, save 
around some lawn or yard, was here and there a "pair of 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



bars " laid on iron hooks set in granite posts. Descend- 
ing on the northerly side of the hill towards the village, 
Tve turn to the right to High street and from thence to 
Pleasant street, where the handsome residences of Mr. 
John D. Sanborn and Mr. Addison Gott, Jr., are situated. 
Next we pass to Mt. Pleasant street Avhich leads towards 
Thatcher's island. As we drive along this avenue we ap- 
proach close to Straitsmouth island and light at the en- 
trance of Rockport harbor, or Sandy bay, as it was called 
in the olden time. This route enables us to get as near a 
view of Thatcher's as is obtainable from the main land, 
and of its two tall light-houses, those famous beacons 
which, like sturdy sentinels, stand guard for Cape Ann. 
Mr. Babson says " Thatcher's island contains about eighty 
acres, most of which have patches of good soil, affording 
rich pasturage for a few cattle. In 1714 it was purchased 
by Rev. John White for 100 pounds. He sold it to Joseph 
Allen in 1727 for 175 pounrls. In 1771 the colonial gov- 
ernment became its owner at a cost of 500 pounds, and 
proceeded in the same year to erect two light-houses and 
a dwelling house on it. The lights were lighted for the 
first time on Dec. 21, 1771." The old light-houses were 
taken down a few j'ears ago and the present handsome 
ones erected. Henry C. Leonard in his little work on 
Pigeon cove says " the sea-birds attracted b}' the splendor 
of these quenchless flames, fly with such force against 
the plates of glass which protect the flames from wind 
and storm, that they fall dead upon the rocks around the 

towers." 

" The rocky ledge runs far out into the sea, 
And on its outer point some miles away, 
The light-house lifts its massive masonry, 
A pillar of fire by night, a cloud by day. 

Like the great Christopher it stands, 
Upon the brink of the tempestuous wave, 



5'7 



ABOVND THE CAPE. 



Wading far out among the rocks and sands, 
The night o'ertakeu mariner to save. 

Steadfast, serene, immovable, the same 
Year after year, through all tlie silent night, 

Burns on forever more that quenchless flame, 
Shines on that inextinguishable light. 

The sea-bird wheeling round it, with the din 
Of wings, and winds, and solitary cries, 

Blinded and maddened by the light within, 
Dashes himself against the glass, and dies. 

Retracing our steps and driving through the village 
along Broadway to Granite street— appropriate name— we 
are on our way to Pigeon Cove and the extreme end of 
the Cape. Great ledges of granite rise far above our 
heads on the left, and the ocean rolls below us on the 
right. These ledges have been cut away little by little, 
year after year, until, in different places, the whole aspect 
of the shore has been changed. As nature neglected to 
provide harbors for vessels the granite companies have 
constructed some with the products of their quarries. 
The excavations w^hich have been carried on here for 
years have created an immense basin in the hill. 

There are tw^o superior hotels at Pigeon Cove— the 
Pigeon Cove House and the Ocean View House— the for- 
mer kept by Mrs. Ellen S. Robinson, the latter by Mrs. 
Sarah A. Lougee of Lowell. In 1866 Mrs. Norwood, who 
had been keeping the old Pigeon Cove House retired and 
Mrs. Robinson succeeded her as proprietor. In 1871 Mrs. 
R. moved the old building and erected the present struct- 
ure. It was opened for visitors the following July. The 
Ocean View House w^as built the same year and opened to 
the public by Frank B. Babson & Co. Mrs. Robinson has 
since bought this house and has leased it to Mrs. Lougee. 
It is only a few rods from the other and commands a su- 



ABOUND THE CAFE. 



perb view of the ocean. Both houses are well furnished, 
have large airy rooms and are conducted on the most ap- 
proved plan. Mrs. Robinson's life for many years has 
been devoted to the work of catering to the wants of sea- 
shore visitors, and her reputation as a hostess here is so 
well established that words of praise to those whom she 
has served arc superfluous. There are thousands all over 
the country and without who can testify to the attractive- 
ness of these houses and the excellence of the table. The 
Pigeon Cove House is, as we have said, one of the best 
known in New England. It has seventy-tive sleeping 
rooms and has at times furnished accommodations for 150 
guests. Mrs. Lougee, who will manage the Ocean V'iew 
House, comes to Pigeon cove with recommendations sec- 
ond to none, having for many j^ears kept the finest private 
hotel in Lowell, catering for some of the best people of 
the city. The Ocean View has about thirty apartments, 
from every one of which the ocean can be seen, and will 
accommodate fifty or more people with perfect comfort. 
It is on Phillips avenue, southerly section, cujy a short 
distance from the point of the Cape. There are also sev- 
eral private boarding houses in the immediate vicinity, or 
lodging houses where people can secure rooms and take 
their meals at the hotel. While resting ourselves here at 
one of these hotels let us occupj* a few moments in re- 
viewing the history of the town of granite shores and 
granite hills. 

The town of Rockport comprises the entire easternmost 
part of Cape Ann. Its surface formation is uneven in the 
extreme, high hills composed of granite and covered with 
great boulders, are interspersed with valleys and indented 
with coves and inlets from the sea. The first settlers 
here were John Babson, who located at Straitsniouth, in 
1695, and Richard Tarr, who built a house at Sandy Bay, 



(oi 



ABOUND THE CAFE. 



about 1697. Tarr became very wealthy for those times 
and he reared a large family of children, the descendants 
of whom are numerous in the town to this day. A mon- 
ument has been erected to him by the citizens. The third 
principal settler was John Pool, who came from Beverly ; 
and his descendants are to be found in the town in large 
numbers. In 1754 the settlement had grown to the size 
which admitted of its being constituted an independent 
parish and this the General Court ordered. It became 
the fifth parish of Gloucester. It coutained at this tim e 
thirty-seven tax-payers. The population was 200 about 
one half of whom were sea-faring people and the remain- 
der tillers of the soil. Only two vessels of any value were 
owned in the parish then. Efforts were made by those 
interested in the fisheries, from time to time between 1743 
and 1819, to secure a wall for a breakwater in the princi- 
pal cove on the east of the cape. During the latter year a 
wall was built on the easterly side of the cape and eight 
years later a wharf was built opposite. 

At the breaking out of the Revolutionary War, seventy 
Rockport boats were engaged in the fisheries, about as 
large a number as there has ever been since. The gov- 
ernment began to build a breakwater at Long cove in 1836 
but abandoned the work for the want of money, in 1840, 
and there stands the uncompleted work to-day , a monu- 
ment to instabilit}'- of purpose. 

The population increased from about 400 in 1775 to 700 
in 1792 and 2,650 in 1840. In the last named year the in- 
habitants, after much opposition from the parent town of 
Gloucester, were set off" as an independent municipality 
under the name of Rockport. The first town meeting was 
held on March 9 of that year. David Babson, jr., James 
Haskell and Thomas O. Marshall were elected selectmen, 
John Gott, treasurer, and Col. William Pool, clerk. Col. 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



Pool held the office continuously until 1868, when he re- 
signed and was succeeded by his son, Calvin W. Pool, 
the present incumbent. 

The fishing interest does not increase of late, but rather 
diminishes. Farming is still a successful pursuit for the 
few who follow it. But the most remunerative interest 
at the present time is granite cutting. Nature bestowed 
upon Rockport a rich mine in the great granite ledges, 
an apparently inexhaustible quarry from which generation 
after generation will draw wealth. Granite was first cut 
from these hills in 1710, to construct mooring stones for 
the fishermen; not however until the beginning of the 
nineteenth century were stones cut and used for building 
purposes. The Universalist church and the Ocean House 
are believed to be the first buildings constructed of this 
granite, and they were built in 1805. 

From Pigeon Cove to Ocean View Point, the last land 
of Cape Ann, is but a short distance. There are three 
principal avenues leading thither — Phillips, northern and 
southern sections, and Babson avenue between the two. 
They are named for the proprietors of the Point, — Mr. E.. 
B. Phillips of Svvampscott and Mr. George Babson of Pig- 
eon Cove. The property here comprises the entire pro- 
jection of laud constituting the northeasterly section of 
Rockport, a territory of some fifty acres, once known as 
the Allen pasture. 

Among elegant residences here are those of Mrs. Bishop 
and Rev. E. H. Chapin both of New York. William Cul- 
len Bryant, the late Richard H. Dana, Thomas Starr King, 
Col. T. W. Higginsou and many other distinguished men 
have resided here. Bryant wrote : " No place of resort 
by the sea-side in New England has such forest attractions 
as Pigeon Cove. The woods look like a beautiful temple;" 
Dr. Chapin says, " The ocean view is one of the grandest 



^3 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



I. have ever seen." The scene during a sfconn is marvel- 
ously grand. The shore here, which trends away to the 
south-east, is bold and rocky, deeply worn by the beating 
waves which roll in from the Atlantic. During a storm 
the roar of the angry sea is heard far away; the wind 
shrieks and bellows as though it were the mingled voices 
of ten thousand infuriated demons bent on tearing the 
ocean from its bed by its long white hair, flying in the gale. 
The long line of rocky shore, away to Rockport on the one 
side and Newburyport on the other, is white with creamy 
foam and flying spray; the billows run high on the broad 
bosom of the ocean and break over every half submerged 
reef and ledge; far out on the point they are madly tum- 
bling on the rocks ; Salvages is a line of leaping foam- 
white water; Straitsmouth, and Avery rock, where par- 
son Avery met his doom, shows white above the surf like 
the hungry teeth of some sea monster; while beyond, the 
waves dashing on Thatcher's, leap high in the air, great 
volumes of sea- foam, looking in the distance like angry 
spirits of the ocean striving to escape from its depths. 
As Edward H. Elwell said of Portland Light: "Along 
the shore it is churn, churn, churn among the rocks, leap, 
leap, leap against the clifi's, as if so many foaming mon- 
sters were rushing from the sea to the land." That we 
have not overdrawn the picture ; that it is the sublimest 
spectacle that ever man beheld on laud, to see a storm 
from this point, every one who ever witnessed the scene 
will bear witness. A lady correspondent of the New Or- 
leans "Times," in 1877, wrote as follows: "The scene 
along the whole coast as far as the eye could reach was 
sublime. Every projecting rock was a point at which g, 
fountain of milk-white spray leaped forty or fifty feet in 
^ the air, and every billow, sweeping up the shore, left the 
^ rocks foaming with waterfalls and cascades, which went 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



frothing and swirling back toward the deep never reach- 
ing it before another wave broke and replaced the fugi- 
tive torrent. Upon the stones and facing the sea the ter- 
rible magnificence of the scene strikes one dumb. Far 
out from the shore the waves could be seen to rise, and 




growing as they rose, take up their'awful march towards 
the land. As the eye goes back towards the sea, it be- 
holds a strange army advancing. They are old men of 
the sea — Druids of the deep — their robes are woven of 
emerald water, their long beards are like snow, and their 



ABONND THE CAPE, 



hair whiter than the thrice washed fleece, floats out upon 
the winds. From their shoulders hang feathery mantles 
of spotless white, and they march forward Avith calm 
courage, born of belief of their own invincibility, till, 
suddenly catching sight of the stern foe in rocky silence 
waiting them on shore, they fall prostrate on their faces 
—their white mantles cover them— their white hair tosses 
and tangles in the gale— the great deep swallows them 
up— and the eye seeks them in vain in the tumultuous 
meadows of the sea." 

"The Linwood " is the only hotel on the point. It oc- 
cupies the extreme northeast end of land at the junction 
of Phillips avenue, southerly section, and Chapin avenue. 
The location is one of the best on the Cape, as much sur- 
rounded by sea atmosphere, and almost as much by the 
sea, as an island and yet not an island. It stands within 
two hundred feet of the water, on a high cliff overlooking 
the ocean, with Massachusetts Bay on one side and 
Ipswich Bay on the other. From the top of the house the 
panorama is grand beyond description. The whole shore 
to Rockport village, and, beyond it, Straitsmouth and 
Thatchers on one side, the Salvages and the open sea in 
front, and the white sands of Ipswich Bay, Mt. Agamen- 
ticus and the Isles of Shoals, on the other, are plainly 
visible. The house is of recent and modern construction, 
and all the rooms can be heated by furnace on cold or 
stormy days. Mr. James Hurd is proprietor, and he 
knows well how to make his guests comfortable and have 
an enjoyable season. 

Col. Thomas Wentworth Higginson says, in '* Oldport 
Days " : " The whole interior of Cape Ann, beyond Glou- 
cester, is a continuous woodland, with granite ledo-es 
everywhere cropping out, around which the high-road 
winds, following the curving and indented line of the sea 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



and dotted here and there with i3shiug hamlets. TJiis 
whole interior is traversed by a net-work of foot paths, 
rarely passable for a wagon, and not always for a horse, 
but enabling the pedestrian to go from any one of these 
villages to any other, in a line almost direct, and always 
under an agreeable shade. In the little inn at the former 
village, there used to hang an old map of this whole forest 
region, giving a chart of some of these paths, which 
were said to date back to the first settlement of the coun_ 
try. One of them, for instance, was called on the map, 
* Old Road from Sandy Bay to Squam meeting-house 
through the Woods.' I used to wander in these woods, 
summer after summer, till I had made my own chart of 
their devious tracks, and now, when I close ray eyes in 
this Old port midsummer, the soft Italian air takes on 
something of a Scandinavian vigor; for the incessant roll 
of carriages I hear the tinkle of the quarryman's hammer 
and the Veery's song ; and I long for those perfumed and 
breezy pastures, and for those promontories of granite, 
where the fresh water is nectar, and the salt sea has a 
regal blue." 

" The trees o'erfull of bloom, 

With wonderous beauty glow; 
Their wealth of rich perlume. 
How prodigal they throw. 

Here darts the sunshine struggling through, 
Where birds, and floAvers, and foliage play; 

And kissing drops of sparkling dew, 
It robes in gold, tree, shrub and spray. 

A city life who can endure, 
When fields are green and skies are blue; 

When flowers are fragrant — air is pure. 
And nature's face is fresh and new." 

But we must hasten on our way "around the Cape." 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



After leaving Pigeon Cove we pass through a country 
Virhich may unquestionably be termed the " roughest of 
the rough;" up hill, down hill, aside hill, around hill; 
from Folly point to Folly cove and then Halibut point. 
There is a quaint little fishing hamlet in the cove. Pass- 
ing through a lovely archway of willows, we enter the 
village of Lanesville, a section of Gloucester. The road 
here is dignified by the name of Washington street. Fur- 
ther on, beyond Plum cove, we arrive at Bay View, wide- 
ly known as the headquarters of the Cape Ann Granite 
Company, and also as being the summer residing place of 
Gen. Butler and Col. Jonas H. French. Gen. Butler's 
residence is on the hill beyond the stone-yard. The 
house and stable are built of granite, but are nowise pre- 
tentious. The surrounding grounds have evidently not 
received much attention of late, as the General spends 
very little time here. Col. French's place adjoining, 
shows evidence of careful cultivation. His house and 
stable are built of granite and are models of taste and 
workmanship. They have the appearance of frequent 
subjection to the art of the painter and decorator. The 
smooth green lawns around them trend away toward the 
ocean on one side and the hills on the other, and are very 
beautiful. The prospect from the piazza is grand in the 
extreme. And from the top of the hill among the granite 
quarries one can see Essex, Ipswich, Hog island (the 
birthplace of Rufus Choate), Plum island, Newburyport, 
Mt. Agamenticus, and the Isles of Shoals. In a clear day 
the Danvers Insane Asylum can be seen very plainly. 

The works of the Cape Ann Granite Company will well 
repay a tour of inspection, and the visitor is sure of cour- 
teous treatment at the hands of the several officers con- 
nected with the place. The Cape Ann Granite Company, 
Jonas H. French president, H. H. Bennett treasurer, 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



Scott Webber superintendent, and Mr. Young foreman of 
quarrying, owns a large tract of land through here, ex- 
tending from the sea back across Washington street and 
up the hill about a mile, containing 175 to 200 acres. 
There is very little soil on the ledges at any point, and in 
many places none at all, the great hills of bare granite 
raising their crests above the shrubbery v^hich grows 
around. The present proprietors purchased this land in 
1869, and began work in April of the same year. The 
place has been much built up since that time. The com- 
pany employs from 300 to 600 men, according to the busi- 
ness on hand. It owns a number of tenement houses 
which are let to employees having families, and a large 
boarding house where the unmarried men board ; also a 
grocery store. In connection with the store are a post 
office and telegraph office. The telegraph line was ex- 
tended from Gloucester proper some years ago, the West- 
ern Union furnishing the material and the granite com- 
pany the labor of construction. 

There was no wharfage whatever here originally but 
the constant dumping of refuse granite into the cove has 
made an extended pier where vessels come to load. A 
railway was laid in 1870 from the end of this wharf up the 
hill, and has branches extending to all the quarries. A 
large locomotive and a train of flat cars do all the trans- 
porting. A number of sheds have been constructed for 
the men to work under, to protect them from the hot sun 
in summer and from storms at all seasons. 

The process of quarrying stone here is something like 
this : The soil being cleared from a ledge and an exami- 
nation having been made to see how the seams run, a 
steam drill is set to work boring two holes from 10 to 
18 feet in depth and 3 inches in width, and 2 inches apart. 
A half keg of powder is put in these holes, and ignited 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



with electricity. The explosion lifts the ledge from 
seam to seam, usually in a straight line. Sometimes 
these lifts are of 20,000 tons weight. The blasts do not 
smash the rock at all ; a person is perfectly safe standing 
a few feet away. The section of the ledge thus broken 
off is split into smaller sections, to suit various purposes, 
with small hand drills and wedges. These pieces are 
taken to the yard by train, there to be worked into what- 
ever shape desired, with hammer and chisel. The work 
is mainly done from drawings, though sometimes from 
patterns. The pieces of stone for the various purposes 
are entirely prepared at the company's yard, so that there 
is no cutting or trimming when they arrive at their desti- 
nation ; nothing to do but put them in place. Those men 
who do the drilling and cutting out of stone, and those 
who chisel out scroll work and smooth and polish various 
blocks of granite, work by the day. Those who cut out 
the small blocks, sold mainly for paving, work by the 
piece. It requires a man of experience to select the 
ledges to be worked and direct where the holes shall be 
drilled. He must understand the grain of the ledge and 
its seams, and know just which way it will split best. A 
man of long experience will judge correctly ninety-nine 
times in a hundred, while a person of no experience will 
spoil a ledge as often as he will succeed. 

The immense size of some of the stones quarried at 
Bay View and shipped will be best understood by giving 
in detail, the figures of the various sections of the Scott 
monument at Washington, cut in 1873. The following 
are the dimensions and weights before the stones were 
trimmed : 

Piece. Length. Width. Thickness. Cubic feet. Tons* 

Platform, 28 2 18 5 3 2f 1659 150| 

Sub-base, 21 6 11 4 10 1143 104 



ABOUND THE CAPE. 



Piece. 


Length. 


Width. 


Thickness. 


Cubic feet. 


Tons. 


Base, 


18 


7 9 


3 10 


535 


48^ 


Die, 


16 


6 


5 6 


528 


48 


Cap., 


18 


8 4 


3 7 


537 


48^ 


Total, 








4402 


400 



The largest piece, the platform, when finished and ready 
for use, weighed 119 tons, and was shipped, with two 
other large stones, on the schooner '* Jonas H. French," 
on Nov. 8, 1873. The vessel was carried out to sea 800 
miles and was not heard from until in January, 1874, more 
than two months after sailing. She had then been given 
up for lost and the company had selected another stone 
for the purpose. This first stone in its rough state, 
weighing 150| tons, was hoisted by a derrick on to a car 
and drawn from the quarry to the yard and thence to the 
wharf. That car is still in the service of the company. 
The usual freight for a railway car is ten tons. The 
heavy steel rails, of the same strength as those used on 
our railways, were snapped in many places between the 
ties, and in some instances crushed on the ends. The 
granite for the entire Boston Post Office and Sub-Treasury 
building was cut from one ledge here. As all know who 
have seen this building, the granite is of unsurpassed 
purity and beauty, "clear as crystal." No company in 
this country has been so successful in quarrying large 
pieces of flagging in perfect shape. More than 100,000 
feet of edge-stone and flagging have been taken from here 
during the past ten years; and millions on millions of 
paving blocks have been furnished to all parts of the 
country. There is hardly a city in the United States that 
has not some building, or monument, or street, built of 
Bay View granite, while some of the finest government 
buildings have been constructed wholly, or in part of it. 
Wherever it has been used it is the admiration of all, and 



7/ 



AROUND THE CAPE. 



stands the weather far better than the average granite. 
The convenience with which it is shipped, directly from 
the yard to the point of destination, enables the company 
to supply granite at comparatively low prices. 

Among the more prominent buildings constructed 
wholly, or in part, of granite from this quarry, may be 
mentioned the Post Office and Sub-Treasury building in 
Boston, one of the finest public structures in the country : 
the approaches to the U. S. Patent Office, and also the 
general Post Office at Washington. The granite for the 
pedestal of the Scott monument was cut here. Also the 
granite work of the Danvers Insane Asylum ; the dam on 
the Merrimack at Lowell ; the Military Academy at West 
Point ; Race Point Lighthouse ; the Charles River bridge 
at Newton Upper Palls; New England Life Insurance 
building, Boston; monument to Col. W. G. Thompson, at 
Mt. Auburn ; monument to Asa PxDtter, at Forest Hills ; 
monument to ex-governor Cliflford, at New Bedford; 
monument and tower to Miles Standish, at Duxbury; 
flagging around the new City Hall at Providence. The 
six largest columns and bases (25 feet in height), for the 
new public library at Philadelphia, were cut here. At 
present writing (May, 1879), the spandrel walls of the 
great New York and Brooklyn bridge are being cut and 
shipped. 

Continuing on our way we pass through Annisquam and 
Riverdale, on the river Annisquam, which makes up from 
Ipswich Bay. At the former place there is a summer set- 
tlement of Cambridge people. The location is an ele- 
vated one and overlooks the bay and coast to the north. 
Riverdale is a thrifty farming community extending along 
Washington street nearly to the city proper. Just as we 
enter the settled portion of Gloucester near the Eastern 
depot, we pass the beautiful cemetery. Thus ends our 



APPENDIX. 



'•drive around Cape Ann," as interesting a drive, proba- 
bly, as the coast affords. 



APPENDIX. 



"We have thus taken our readers along the "North 
Shore" and trust that the work has been so performed 
that with this little book in hand they can make the tour, 
or any part of it, intelligently and with pleasure. The 
authors are indebted to Mr. Tuttle of the Eastern Rail- 
road for much assistance and encouragement; to the con- 
ductors on the Gloucester Branch, for many valuable sug- 
gestions ; also to the station agents, hotel and land pro- 
prietors and business men in Boston, Salem and Glouces- 
ter, who by their patronage have enabled us to issue this 
book free to the public- It is our purpose to publish it 
again next year, when we hope, with the aid of past ex- 
perience, to make it much better. Any suggestions from 
persons interested in the North Shore section, or any ten- 
der of information or illustrations will be duly appreciated 
and to this end correspondence is solicited. 

It is hardly necessary to say, that all the points men- 
tioned in this book are reached by the Eastern road or its 
branches, the time table of which will be found in the 
newspapers and at all stations. Connections are made at 
Boston with the Providence and Stonington lines, also 
the Fall River line, the only first-class lines to New York 
and the South ; at Portland with the Maine Central, and 
at Boston with the St. John's and the Portland lines of 
steamers. The Eastern, notwithstanding its financial 
troubles, is a well equipped road and, under new and ex- 
perienced managers will, it is believed, be run to the sat- 
isfaction of the traveling public. In summer time six 
trains are run to and from Boston. 



Read 

the 

Boston 
Evening 



TRAVELLER. 



In its columns may be 

found all the 

news of the day. 

For Sale by 

all Dealers. 

Price 

3 c. 

Delivered at your 

Residence for 75 c. per month. 



Pigeon Cove House, 

PIGEON COVE, MASS. 



Mrs. ELLEN S. EOBINSON, & CO., Proprietors. 

This excellent hotel is situated on the extreme point 
of Cape Ann, in the township of Rockport Mass. It 
commands magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean stud- 
ded with hun dreds of sails and steamers passing in pan- 
oramic view, while the mighty billows thunder continually 
along the shore. The scene at this point after or during 
a storm is marvelously grand and beautiful. The bathing 
is safe and the facilities are most excellent for its most 
luxuriant enjoyment. The scenery about the village is 
very charming, and the perfect roads and beautiful groves 
afford delightful drives. 

Pigeon Cove has been for a long time the favorite re- 
sort of Thomas Starr King, Col. T. W. Higginson, Richard 
H. Dana, and many other noted Bostonians. 

Adjoining the Pigeon Cove House are beautiful groves, 
and the city of Summer cottages that surrounds it makes 
it the centre of a delightful summer resort. 

Extensive quarries in the town form one of the places 
of interest, while the bathing, sailing and fishing aflford 
constant attractions and amusements. 

There are seven trains daily from Boston to Rockport 
Station, and barges await the arrival of each train. 

There is a telegraph office in the house. 

Address, Mrs. ELLEN S. ROBINSON, & CO., 

Pigeon Cove, Mass. 



Ocean View House 



Pigeon Cove, Mass. 



Mrs. SARAH A. LOUGEE, Proprietor. 

This new and elegantly famished Sea 
Shore Hotel is one of the finest on the 
'New England coast. It is situated on 
Philhps' Avenue at the entrance to the 
beautiful grove and cottage city of Ocean 
View, very near the end of the Cape and 
in close proximity to " the Springs." The 
sea view from the house is unsurpassed. 
Coaches connect with every train to and 
from Gloucester, Salem and Boston. The 
drives here are among the finest in the 
world. 
Address Mrs. Sarah A. Lougee, 

PIGEON COVE, MASS. 



THE DELPHINE HOUSE, 

EAST GLOUCESTER, MASS. 

SitixcLted rtecur tlxe BecLcTc. 

FINE BATHING FACILITIES. 

Boating and Fishing close at hand. 



OPEN FOR SUMMER BOARDERS 

FROM JUNE 1, TO OCT. 1. 



To reach ike Delpfmie 



take the cars of the Eastern road at Boston 
to Gloucester ; there a stage for the hotel 
connects with every train. House 20 min- 
utes drive from the depot. Five trains each 
way in winter and six in summer. 



0(5eki\ View rorqt, 



The Linwood is situated on the extreme north- 
east POINT OF Cape Ann. It is tlie "jumping off place," 
so to speak ; away out in the ocean, 

*' Where the waves are wild, 
And the winds are free." 

In this respect it has no superior on the Atlantic 
coast. The view here is one of the most picturesque of 
the kind in the world. The house stands within a few 
rods of the ocean, high above the water. It is a first- 
class summer hotel in every respect. The rooms are 
warmed by furnace on cold, stormy days. The fishing, 
boating, bathing, and other attractions, will be found in 
body of this book. 

I> H, O P R. I E T O R- , 

P. O. Box 78, Pigeon Cove, Mass. 



>> ^^ ^ 5^^ Jk^ ^^yb ^JL^ cJLJE dJOt, Xul .ej M 






CIESCEIT BEACH, 
IJanchester-by-the-sea, Mass. 

The CiiESCENT House is situated on a gentle eleva- 
tion near the dividing line between Manchester-by-the- 
Sea and Gloucester, and very near Magnolia Point, just 
oflf the direct road from Salem to Gloucester. It is only 
a short distance from the Magnolia Railroad Station, 
three miles from Gloucester and two from Manchester 
village. The beautiful Crescent beach is just back of the 
house, and affords superior facilities for bathing. Boat- 
ing, fishing, and walking or riding, are unsurpassed. 
The house is of modern build, and is surrounded by beau- 
tiful lawns. The accommodations and table have a supe- 
rior reputation. Coaches connect with all trains. 

iiiiii iitwif 11, 

PROPRIETOR. 



ass 




GOOD HIRBOH BEACH, 




This first class family resort has been enlarged and 
refurnished. The location is high, cool, and absolutely- 
healthy. The rooms are large, and furnished with clos- 
ets. The Beach is the finest on Cape Ann, free from 
undertow, and perfectly safe for children at any time of 
tide. A shallow inlet afi"ords still-bathing. Eod fishing 
is good from Bass Rock, and deep sea fish can be caught 
within half a mile from the shore. The Ocean Scenery 
and Drives for twenty miles around are unequaled by any 
on the Massachusetts coast. The celebrated Magnolia 
Swamp is only four miles distant, and Bass Rock, Churn 
Rock, and Pebbly Beach, are within a few minutes walk 
from the house. A fine stable, under the charge of an 
experienced groom, is attached to the Hotel. 



Billiards, Bowling, Croquet, &c. 



$2.50 per day, $10 to $17.50 per week. 

MRS. E. G. BROWN. 



MAaiOLIA, MAI 



The location of this House, at Magnolia Point, with 
sea breezes, east, south and west, and protected by a belt 
of woods from cold north winds, is the finest on the 
North Shore. 

At no other house are the attractions of Beach, 
Shore and Woods within such easy reach. Bathing on 
a clean, white sand beach, a crescent of half a mile within 
one minute's walk of the house. Boating in a sheltered 
bay, with pier landing at all tides. Fishing "ofi* the 
rocks," a stone's throw from the house, and " deep sea " 
a half mile from shore. Driving and Walking by shore 
or woods — through groves of natural growth of oak, pine 
and hemlock. The cusine is kept at the standard which 
has made its reputation, and everything necessary for 
comfort and convenience provided. Nearest to Rafe's 
Chasm, Norman's Woe, by path in view of most pictur- 
esque scenery of the New England Coast. 



><^^ 



MarU@h@ad Med 



The Trustees under the will of Ephraim Brown 
are now ready to sell Lots on Marblehead Neck, 
varying in size from 5,000 to 60,000 square feet. 
Prices according to location. 

It is believed that the naturally fine features of 
this beautiful Peninsula are not surpassed by any 
other place of summer resort. The shores are bold, 
with high and rough cliffs, indented by numerous 
coves and sand and shingle beaches. On the one 
side is the ocean, with a most extensive view, em- 
bracing the whole of Massachusetts Bay. On the 
other is the beautiful harbor and fine old town of 
Marblehead. The harbor is one of the safest for 
boats, and is well known to yachtsmen. 

Larore numbers of sales have been made within 
the last few months, and many fine residences are 
now being built. 

Further information will be given on application 
to either of the undersigned. 

• Isaac C. Wyman, 33 School street, Boston, 

William D. Northend, Salem, 

George F. Flint, " 

Trustees, 




iifToi nm 



MARBLEHEAD. 

B. r. "WJLIIE, Proprietor. 



The Clifton House is thirteen miles from Boston on 
the Swampscott Branch of the Eastern Railroad, within 
three minutes walk of Clifton Station in Marblehead, near 
the Swampscott line. 

This house accommodates 125 boarders. A large veg- 
etable and fruit farm extending back of the house supplies 
fresh fruit and vegetables, and a premium herd of through- 
bred Ayrshire cows furnish an abundance of rich milk. 

The large stables of the establishment afford boarding 
and livery accommodations. 

A billiard room and bowling alley, with ample lawns 
for Croquet, Base Ball and other games, offer opportunity 
for various amusements, while the broad piazzas, and 
grove of well grown trees give shaded resting places. 

A beach directly in front of the house affords excel- 
lent bathing and boating; off the rocks on the shore there 
is good fishing, and the best of fishing grounds near by. 

The temperature of this location is cool and bracing, 
very seldom is it uncomfortably warm, as a sea breeze 
sets in nearly every day. 



the: 



Maine Central Railroad 

RUNNING BETWEEN 

PORTLAND & BANGOR, 

Forms with its own line, branches and connections. 
THE ONLY RAIL ROUTE TO 

Brunswick, Bath, Richmond, Gardiner, Augusta, Water- 
ville, Belfast, Dexter, Bangor, Farmington, Dover, Fox- 
croft, Wiscassett, Damariscotta, Waldoboro, Rockland. 

IS THE BEST AND MOST DIEEOT EOUTE TO 

Auburn and Lewiston and all of the principal cities and 
towns of Maine, and points of interest in the State ; in- 
cluding the celebrated Aroostook County; and to St. Ste- 
phen, St, Andrews, Wonstock, Edmundston, Fredericton 
and St. John, N. B. ; Halifax, N. S. ; and points in the 
maratine Provinces. Connections are made at Portland 
and Transfer Station with trains of the Eastern, Boston 
& Maine, and Portland and Ogdensburg Railroads; at 
Westbrook with Portland & Rochester R. R. ; and at Yar- 
mouth & Danville Junctions with the Grand Trunk Rail - 
way. 



Maine Central Railroad. 

BT BS THi R@yiTi T® ALL 

OF THE RESOKTS OF MAINE EAST OF PORTLAND. 

MOOSEHEAD AND BANGELEY LAKES, MT. 

DESERT, BOOTHBAY, MOOSE AND 

SQUIBBEL ISLANDS, 

rorming a daily line to all of these mentioned and to 
numbers of other beautiful resorts, which, with their fine 
scenery, delightful sailing, excellent fishing and hunting 
are rapidly becoming well knoivn and appreciated. 

There is no equally accessible portion of our whole 
country which offers such attractions to the tourist, pleas- 
ure seeker, invalid or sportsmen as the 

STATE OF MJLIXTS; 

and the traveler should be sure and procure tickets over 
its great Kailway Line, the Maine Central. 

OFFICES OF THE COMPANY AT PORTLAND, MAINE. 

PAYSON TUCKER, Supt. 

Gen'l Ticket Ag't. 



FIU RIf El Ull 



FOR 




NEW YORK. 

CUT SIJO 



Tickets good only for continuous passage on 
train leaving Boston at 6 o'clock P. M., 
on day of sale, and Steamer con- 
nect therewith at Fall River. 

Regular tickets at $3.00, good on any train between 
Boston and Fall River. 

Steamboat express train leaves Boston daily (Sun- 
days excepted) at 6 P. M. (Sunday trips June 15th to 
Sept. 14th, inclusive), connecting at Fall River with 

THE WELL-KNOWN STEAMERS 



AND 



now on the line for the summer season. BROOKLYN 
PASSENGERS and baggage transferred FREE by ''AN- 
NEX" boats. 

Tickets and Staterooms secured at the company's 
office, No. 3, Old State House, corner Washington 
and State streets, and at Old Colony Depot. 

L. H. PALMER, Agent, J. R. KENDRICK, 

3 Old State House, Boston, Snpt. 



¥ M ni w J n f , If 1 f. I W f 




BETTFOEEIV 



Boston & New York, 

Trains leave Boston & Providence R. R. Station daily 
(Sundays excepted) at 6 P. M. ; connect at Fox Point 
wharf, Providence, with the New and Magnificent 

MASSACHUSETTS 



AND 



EHODE ISLAND, 

arriving in New York at 6 A.M. Returning, leave Pier 
29 North River, at 5 P. M., arriving in Boston at 7 A. M. 

Tickets and Staterooms secured at Company's office, 

214 Washington, corner State Street, 

■ AND AT 

BOSTON & PROVIDENCE R. R. STATION. 

J. W. RICHARDSON, Boston Agent. 
A. A. Folsom, Supt. 



NEW YORK 

YIA STONINGTON LINE, 

150 

BOSTON Sc NEW YORK. 

good only for boat and connecting train as spec- 
ified on their face. 

Trains leave Boston & Providence Railroad Station 
daily (Sundays excepted), at 5.30 P. M. 

Tickets and State Rooms secured at 

1. 214 fasMgon St, corier State Street, 

and Boston & Providence Railroad Station. 

A. A. FOLSOM, Supt. B. & P. R. R. 
J. W. RICHARDSON, Agent, Boston. 



BETWEEN 

Boston and Portland, Eastport and Calais, Me., 
Grand Menan, St. John's N. B., Hali- 
fax, N. S., and Prince Ed- 
ward Island. 

The International Steamship Co.'s line of Steamers, 

CITY OF RICHMOND, 
NEW YORK, 

NEW BRUNSWICK, 

FALMOUTH, 

will leave end of Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A. M. 
and Portland at 6 P. M., for Eastport and St. Johns, 
as follows : 

In March, April, May & June, 

Every Monday and Thursday. 
In July, August and to September 22d, 

Every Monday, "Wednesday and Friday. 
From Sept. 22d through Oct., Nov. and Dec, 

Every Monday and Thursday. 

Returning leave St. Johns at 8 A. M., and Eastport at 
1 P. M., same day. 

Tickets sold and passengers forwarded to the frontier 
towns of Maine and all the principal places in the Provin- 
ces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward 
Island. 

Passengers by morning and noon trains on Eastern 
and Boston and Maine Railroads, from Boston, can con- 
nect with the steamers at Portland. 

For circulars, with maps and description of the route 
and list of fares on through and excursion tickets, and 
any other information, apply at the Company's office, 

No. 4= Milk St., Portland, IVIe. 

T. C. HERSEY, President and Manager, 

or to the local agents, 

W. H. KiLBY, Boston, A. R. Stubbs, Portland, 

G. Hayes, Eastport, H. W. Chisholm, St. Johns. 



SEA SHORE LOTS ON 



A GOOD CHANCE FOR AN INVESTMENT. 



Juniper Point is situated on the extreme point of Sa- 
lem Neck, commanding a view of Salem and Beverly Har- 
bors, also Marblehead Shores, including Massachusetts 
Bay, Islands, Light Houses, Shipping &c. ; the whole era- 
bracing a scenery worthy of a visit. For those in quest 
of a Summer Resort it cannot be excelled, it has also the 
Wenham Lake Water Pipes extending through the main 
avenues. The Salem Street Railway runs open cars every 
half hour during the summer season, giving ample accom- 
modation to those wishing to make connections with 
Trains running in and out of Salem. For particulars, 
plans &c., apply to or address 

D. B. GARDNER, Salem, Mass. 



IMPORTERS AND DEALERS 



IN 



FINE TEAS, FANCY GROCERIES, 



AND 



FoTetgTL DeliccLctes. 
127 WASHINGTON STREET, 



Lfiwwmt mmiMnAw, 



MANUFACTURER OF 



Boots and Shoes 

OF ALL nESCJtIPTIONS, 

Men, Women and Children's wear. 

Oizr Sect STcoTe fvtencLs Tv^tll do Tsrell 
to gtve izs a call. 

147 ESSBX STREBT^ 

CHAS. M. BUFFUM, 

liO'WTEIST CASH DEALER IN" 






mm m-M-.-« 



MW^Ml 



Agricultural Implements, 

CUTLERY, BRUSHES AND SEEDS 

SSS ESSEX STI^^EET, 




The undersigned has opened a shop in the rear of 



■i) 



JErttrcLThce. also ctt 

NO. 8 LAFAYETTE STREET, 

Where he is prepared to do all kinds of 

OAREIAGE, SIGN, 



.A.3srnD 




® /. « 



t) 



AT REASONABLE RATES. 



The best of stock and thorough work guaranteed. A 
share of your patronage is respectfully solicited. 



"VT". HI. C.A.SSZE1 



BEVERLY POTTERY. 



The graceful forms of ^indent lottery Yases 
have bee7i fo7^ ages the admiration ofai't co?i9iois- 
seurs, but no o?te ever U7idertook to copy o?' 7'epro- 
duce them tilt at the suggestion, a?id fo?^ the spec^ 
ial accom7nodation of'Bosto7i ladies, t?ie business 
was co77ime7iced in 7872, by t?ie Seve7'ly 'Pottery, 
To 77teet a co7istantly i7icreasi7ig demand, the 
7na7iufactu7*e was comme7iced 07i a 7nore extensive 
plan: the goods were offered publicly i7i Soston 
and JVe^y To7^k, and ^eve7'ly Pottery at 07ice 
gained exte7isive popula7'ity. 

Our styles are rep7^oductions f7'07n choice orig- 
inals i7i Possession of Public Museums and pri- 
vate collectio7is, 

Ma7iy imitations of our production, have been 
made i7i moulds a7id sold U7ider the 7ia7ne of Bev- 
erly Pottery; but ours is all *'throw7i'' upon the 
Potters' wheel, a7id co7iseque7itly has the saTne 
symmetry and appeara7ice as that of a7icient 
7n a7iufactu7^e, 

IVe ?iave never issued a catalogue, but will send 
a sample of ■A7itique Ware, securely packed, to 
any add7'ess on receipt of ^6. 00, 

yVe have Plai7i, Polished, and P)eco7*ated, 
Parties ordering should 77te/itio7i which ki7id they 
desire. 

jidd7^ess all orders to 

c, A. zAjr^jS'jyc^', 

Severly, Mass. 

Messrs. GPAVBS, ZOC£:B & CO., Age7its, 

2S 1^7'anklin Street, Soston. 



PATENT 




PAINT, 

For Vessels' Bottoms. 



This paint received the Prize Medal at the exhibition 
of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanic Association 
in Boston, in June 1865; also the Prize Medals at the 
exhibitions of the American Institute held in New York 
in 1869 and 1870. 

The attention of masters and owners of vessels, ship- 
builders and others interested in shipping, is called to this 
Paint, which has been thoroughly tested, and is now of- 
fered to the public with the fullest confidence. It is es- 
pecially valuable to yachtsmen. 

When applied on Wooden-bottomed Vessels, it will 
be found a perfect substitute for copper sheathing, effec- 
tively protecting the bottom from Worms, Barnacles, 
Grass, Seaweed, etc. 

For vessels sheathed with copper or yellow metal it 
will be of the greatest advantage, as the durability of the 
sheathing will be doubly enhanced by the use of this 
Paint. 

TARR & WONSON, 

East Grloucester, Mass. 

_ 



EstablisKed 18SS5. 




IMPORTERS, 
Wholesalers and Retailers of 




DECORATED AND PAINTED 

STONE CHINA SETTS, 
SILVER PLATED WARE AND CUTLERY, 

AND A FULL LINE OP 

fiC©pa)§©iD© Qh]ai!ijd©BB©Ps acid Lacnp ©@@d!se, 

ALSO A FULL SUPPLY OF 

FunisrisHiNG aooDS, 

such as are requirecl for Hotels, Restaurants, &c. Our facilities 
for furnishing large lots of goods are Avell known, and at 

PKIOES ALWAYS AS LOW AS THE LOWEST. 

Inspect Our Stools: IBefoi^e DPnrcliasixig. 

89, 91, & 93 FRANKLIN STREET, 
BOSTOISr. 

Correspondence Solicited. 



W, J, MABBOCKB,. 

APOTHECARY, 

107 M:A.I]Sr STREET, 

Formerly of F. & E. Bailey of Lowell, Mass. 

AND TOILET AETICLES. 

Prescriptions Com-po-uirided. "With. Care. 




120 k 122 Main St., Gloucester. 

I) 








• And Carpetings, 

Hosiery, Kid Gloves, Dress Trimmings, Corsets, 
and Thread Store Goods. 

GmrtitentB Cmi and Made to Ord 
GOODS FREEU SHOfI, AP HO OKE UEQED TO BUY. 



^^©R@^ f@p IVUpcito ©tijsi@ir©st's R:©!l8@fe|]© Ptttgpnis. 



WARRANTED THE BEST. 



Oipi Am Goppii: Paiat 



■1 SI 
FOB 



J 



VESSELS' BOTTOMS, 

MANUFACTURED BY 

^9%i ■as'B ^m^ Iks' ^"imwi 9 bb ^^ ay an v 
GLOUCESTER, MASS. 

Insurance Agents, 

AT 

MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 

Agents for, Home of New York; Connecticut of 
Hartford ; Manufactories of Newark ; Royal Canadian of 
Montreal; First National of Worcester; Gloucester of 
Gloucester ; Holj'oke Mutual of Salem. 

These are first class companies and in most of them 
we insure in all parts of Cape Ann. Owners of Summer 
Houses will find it advantageous to "insure with us. as 
we are conveniently located. 



MANUFACTUKER OF 



TIN .WARES, 

AND AGENT FOR THE CELEBRATED 

lAGEE STANDARD RAISES KM STABARD PARLOR STOYES, 

With all the latest improvements. 

Dealers in lurnaces, Stoves, Grate linings and Cast Iron Sinks. 

PlumlDing Materials, suoli as Water Closets, Bath Tubs, &c. 

146 MAIN ST., GLOUCESTER, MASS. 



DEALER IN 



ik t. 



Cil 



Fancy and Toiiei Ariichs. 
' PRESCRIPTIONS CAREFULLY COMP^DED. 
MAIN STREET, 

aLOTJCESTER, MJlSS. 



ESTABLISHEr) 1833, 



s 



s »< 



113 Main St., Gloucester. 



Largest Line of 



Youth's, Boys' & Children's 

READY MADE CLOTHING 

In Essex County. 

PlML© CmSifcOML ClotMMg 

To Order, and Tailoring in all its branches. 



Bought and sold for 

Ci^SH ONLY. 



Also, HATS, CAPS, TEUKKS, VALISES and Furnishing Cooils. 



FEABODY 



'227 and 229 ESSEX ST, 

Hosiery, Gloves, Corsets, Skirts, 

Millinery, Laces, Aprons, 

Ties, Unfiles, Bows, 

&c., &c. 

Silver, and Silver Plated Wares, 

Watches, Gold Rings, Pins, 

Charms, Lockets, 

Crosses, 

&c. 

Black Silks, Cashmeres, Alpacas, 

Percales, Prints, Demins, 

Tickings, Cottons, 

Cambrics, 

&c. 

il^^ The Lowest Possible Prices .=&. 
\^^ Rule in Every Department, .^l 



*> 

<- 



TO THE COOL SEA SHORE! 



!le Eastem BailmS 

Offers the most conveiiieut ;ind frequent means 
of access, and 

The Phastdif6 Seeker 

lias a choice more varied and extensive than 
Is given by any other line of erjual length in the country. 

AMONG THE MORE NOTICEABLE POINTS ARE 

.Swampscott, Marblehead, Beverly JFarms, Magnolia, Man- 
chester-by-the-Sea, Gloucester, llockport, Pigeon Cove, 
Salisbury,* Rye Beaches, Nevvburyport, Plum Island, 
Portsmouth, Isles of Shoals, York, Newcastle and the 
islands of Portland in Casco Bay. 

It is the direct route to Poland Springs, Kangely 
Lakes, ^It. Kineo, ^Toosehead Lakes, Mt. Desert and the 

SlortestLiietfltlefMteloitaiis; 

And the only one from Boston Running through The 
Notch via North Conway, to Glen House, Crawford, Fab- 
yans Profile, Bethlehem, Jefferson, &c. 

Pullman Cars and Observation Cars are used, and 
through Sleeping Cars run between Boston and Bangor. 

CALL FOR LIST OF EXCURSIONS. 



JOHN HORNB r, 

MAST. TRANS. 



LUCIUS TUTTLE, 

G. Y. AND T. A. 



